91 Ford Mustang Show Restomod Leave Corvette, Porsche, Viper, Gtrs In Your Dust on 2040-cars
Fort Worth, Texas, United States
Watch the attached video.
What you are bidding on here is something you
probably won’t ever run into again. This
is a restomod that is 10 years in the making being advertised for sale just as
it is being completed. This car has over $55,000 in brand new parts with ZERO miles and countless custom touches. This doesn’t include the cost of the actual
car, labor, or paint and body work. There are several thousand hours in this car. To
have this built you would spend well over $100,000 at any shop and would
probably wait years for it to be completed.
The buyer of the vehicle has a couple of options to choose as the car
will be completed based on your wishes. This build began with an absolutely gorgeous, clean
title, 1991 Ford Mustang GT Hatchback with only 91,000 accident free no rust
miles. This car was parked in 2003,
stripped and has been meticulously crafted since. Nothing on this car was rushed and everything
done was done with performance, aesthetics and quality in mind. Nothing was just “thrown” together and very
little is just a bolt on. The parts list is a rundown of the best of the best. The engine and transmission were blueprinted
and put together by the best there is, Bennett Racing and D&D performance. Practically everything on this car is either
polished, chromed, powder coated or ceramic coated. ARP
stainless 12 point fasteners and AN fittings with braided steel lines were used
throughout. There are probably close to
a thousand dollars in just bolts in the engine bay. This is a show winning build. A show polished Renegade double bracket with ARP
stainless bolts and a 10 rib pulley are installed and ready to accept your
choice of supercharger depending on your goals.
You get to pick from the following brand new Vortech head units which
were made for this bracket. Here are
your supercharger choices: (new and polished) SQ Si – if you want under 700hp and a quieter
supercharger with better low end power then this is a great choice. T trim – If you want people to know there is a
supercharger under the hood and you want something under 800hp then this is a
good choice but at lower boost levels it won’t respond (build boost) as well as
the SQ. YSI - This is
the big boy, good to 1200hp. This car
was built to handle this big boy but it might be a little much for the street. Realistically, for a street car you really don’t
need more than about 600 horsepower .
This is a great power level for the street and the 60lb injectors
currently in are perfect for this power level as well as tuning for street
manners, start-up and idle. These older
fox bodys are light compared to newer cars so it would still run away from most
everything else. An Anderson Mondo bypass kit that has been chrome
ceramic coated, with the (of course) polished Mondo valve will be installed
with the supercharger. You can see an
early mockup in the video. This car is garaged and covered, it will only be
test driven as part of the build tuning process to check everything functions
properly and will then be dyno’d naturally aspirated. This way there is no mystery on how much power
the car makes before supercharging. It
will not be driven after completed and will remain garaged until driven by its
new owner. Once you choose what supercharger you want the
supercharger will be added and the car dyno’d and tuned with the
supercharger. Of course if you prefer,
you can have it tuned by a tuner of your choosing and I’ll credit back $500
after payment toward this. At a minimum
this car will be tuned and dyno’d naturally aspirated so you have a
well-mannered street car with a known naturally aspirated power level. The stock tune just won’t hack this level of
modification so this car has the proven TWEECER RT piggyback tuning system. A laptop will be included with the car that
has registered upgraded tuning software installed (Binary Editor) and EEC
Analyzer. The laptop will have this
car’s naturally aspirated and supercharged tunes on it for reference. Hooking the laptop up with the included USB
cable you can monitor and data log virtually every engine parameter on the
screen such as pulsewidth, duty cycle, air to fuel ratio, air intake temp etc
as well as data log it all. This does
not mean you need to know how to work any of this, it is just there if you want
to. As it will be tuned you don’t have
to know how to do anything except drive.
However, the TWEECER RT has the ability to save 6 tunes that you can
select with the turn of a knob. You
could have a different tune for different boost levels, gas mileage, with or
without meth injection, race fuel or pump gas…and of course a valet mode is
always a good idea where you can restrict RPM to 2000, cut fuel etc to keep
your car and others safe. The goal of this car was to build an all-around
performance fox body that will hang with the most expensive production cars on
the road course, drag strip and car show all while having daily driver manners
and comforts. This car was built to be a
street car not an all-out max power effort.
What does that mean exactly? Because folks have different interpretations
of what a street car is, let me clarify.
This is not the normal Mustang you see that is a max horsepower effort
with a big cam that will have low RPM bucking issues, no torque off idle,
missing Air Conditioning and heat, manual brakes or steering, overheating
issues, no sway bar, inop power locks, poor cornering/braking etc. This was built to be an all-around car with
every facet at a world class level… a motor with a healthy idle and exhaust
note, a massive torque band, the ability to sit and idle in 100 degree weather
without overheating all while keeping its passengers cool and comfortable with
the choice of either listening to the music of the exhaust note or a high end
quality stereo system. (not a bass monster
or thumpy stereo) That being said, all of the major systems on this
car are built to handle well over a 1000 horsepower if desired in the future. These main systems include: ·
A Bennet Racing Dart block 347 Big Bore
stroker good up to approx 1400hp. ·
Twin Disc Mcleod Clutch rated at 1200hp. ·
D&D Viper Spec T56 – D&D says
they have had ridiculous power put through these without breakage. ·
8.8 rear end chopped with 9 inch big
ends welded on with Strange 33 spline axles – over 1000hp. ·
Glenn’s performance sleeper fuel system
with twin pumps AND and Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump – good to approx. 1400+hp. This build started with a low mile, accident and
rust free original 5.0 V8 five speed Mustang.
This car was parked in 2003 and completely gutted and stripped. The engine bay was smoothed as well as the
antenna. Badging was removed from the
fenders and smoothed. This car is a
masterpiece. A full race winning suspension from Maximum
Motorsports was installed. It’s
practically the whole Maximum Motorsports catalog. A
heavy duty Torque arm and panhard bar keep the rear axle in place while
planting the tires on acceleration and reducing nose dive during braking. Powdercoated Cobra discs in the rear with
integrated parking brake, slotted rotors and a coilover conversion round out
the rear. Up front the car is lightened,
strengthened and geometry improved with a MM K-member which has the engine set
back for better weight distribution.
Trick tubular adjustable A-arms allow you to place the wheels forward,
aft, in or out based on your preference.
The sway bar mounts were reinforced with welded in tabs before painting.
Powdercoated 96 spindles hold the Agent 47 cooling ducts which cool the Brembo
calipers and slotted rotors. The notoriously noodle like Fox platform was
stiffened up with full length weld-in subframe connectors with seat mounts,
4-point roll bar with harness bar, and rear shock brace. The interior on this Mustang is stunning. By far the classiest I have ever seen in a
fox body. The car originally had the
titanium/black interior which was in great condition and looked good but it was
removed and replaced with an original black interior from an 88,000mile LX which
was completely gone through and customized.
Anything that needed to be was replaced, cleaned or redyed. A new headliner was installed, the original
carpet was in great shape and just cleaned. The door panels were disassembled, cleaned and
resprayed with OEM dye and the middle and lower panels replaced with custom
leather panels. The middle door panel is
a two tiered panel(thicker on top) with supple black leather on the bottom and
a perforated vinyl on the top. This
ties in nicely with the dash that has the same perforated material on the dash
pad. The bottom door panel gets rid of
the stock plastic speaker cover and is the same black leather with a subtle
flame motif around the Focal 6.5 woofer.
The stock sound deadening was
removed and the panels were lined with a new better than stock jute backing
which is aluminum on one side for sound deadening and heat reflection. New police (one key) door and hatch locks
were installed, new power locks, new Carlite 1/4 windows and all door trim, front
and rear (Cobra) lights, rear hatch lights, bumpers, hole covers and weather
stripping. Custom door sill plates with
CNC cut 5.0 symbols tie in nicely with all the polished and brushed aluminum
accents. The center console boasts a new leather boot with aluminum
rivets, a T56 leather handle (or a billet one if you would rather), new LEATHER
parking brake handle and armrest delete. Three voltage gauges are installed where the
ash tray used to be to entertain you as you watch how the electronic controller
varies the voltage to the dual electric fans and waterpump based on
temperature. The stock airbag steering column was pulled in favor
of the more desirable tilt column out of an 89.
An NRG quick release allows you to seemlessly remove the gorgeous MOMO
leather steering wheel with integrated horn button for easy access and as an
anti-theft measure. This car has a custom, one of a kind
rear seat delete with an integrated custom roll bar. The roll bars you can buy for these cars all
bolt the main hoop down into the footwell of the rear seat. This results in the main hoop being visible,
and in my opinion unsightly, whenever you open the door. The footwell is also a thin area of the floor
pan… although it has proven to be up to the test in a rollover. This roll bar however has the main hoop up at
the front corner where the rear seat sat.
This is a more substantial area of the floor which is boxed in below and
has less chance of the main hoop punching through. It also results in a very asthetically
pleasing roll bar set-up. The roll bar
is not noticeable with the doors open as it is set back behind the pillar and
the down bars follow the angle of the quarter windows. This also keeps the roll
bar a safer distance from your head. A
harness bar curves around the seats in case you want to add 5 point harnesses
in the future. The rear seat delete was designed to
look stock and elegant, adding minimal weight over the rear seat components all
while housing high end stereo components. A custom stereo system was designed to fit in
place of the rear seat and provide a flat surface to extend the hatchback into
one large hatch area as well as hiding the bottom portion of the roll bar. You could definitely get some groceries (or a
couple of sets of golf clubs) in there. To save weight the woofer enclosures
were made out of fiberglass and the top panels are a composite. The entire unit is anchored to the car by the
original seat belt anchors so it will not move around but you can remove it if
you just had to get as light as possible for a track event. Custom carpet for the hatch was cut from some
really nice plush 9400 carpet (much nicer than stock) that was bound and placed
over 1/2 ’ jute backing for sound deadening.
Looking at the car you wouldn’t even realize two 10” subs and a monster amp
were in the car. The stereo consists of
a pair of Boston 10 inch subs in the rear and Focal 6.5” components in the
front. The speakers are driven by an old
school Soundstream Reference 4-channel amp.
If you know stereos, you know this is nice stuff. This stereo was put together for accurate
audiophile sound, not so folks can hear bass from 3 miles away. Everything is controlled by a Pioneer Premier
blue tooth head unit with an Ipod/Iphone interface. It has a remote control and Hands free phone
as well as A2DP to stream music via Bluetooth so you could select a song from
outside the car if you wished. The rear view mirror was replaced by a
high tech mirror with integrated LCD screen that will allow you to monitor and
record a front facing or rear facing camera.
So if you want to record passing that Porsche on track days at your
favorite road course, this mirror has a hi def camera with DVR integrated into
it. The rear camera is a custom install
that was very time consuming to run the wiring from the mirror, into the hatch,
through the wing and all the way to the third brake light where the rear camera
has been inconspicuously mounted inside.
The mirror is also a NAV system with GPS or you can watch videos loaded
from a micro SD card. Several hundred hours were spent on the wiring on
this car. Two wiring harnesses from 91
were mated so that wiring could be run through fenders and many unsightly
components hid in the fenders. All
wiring throughout the car was gone through and all electrical work was done
correctly with connections soldered and heatshrinked. The wiring for all the aftermarket
electronics was completed and integrated at the same time while the car was
gutted. The diagnostic port wiring was
moved into the interior of the car so codes can now be read from the drivers
seat vice underhood. The Salt and Pepper
12 PIN connectors from the engine compartment that are 1) unsightly and 2)
typically the cause of a myriad of electrical issues were disposed of and the
computer harness and engine harness were integrated for a much cleaner
appearance. Like everything else on this car, the electric fan
and waterpump setup is hi-tech. A
controller determines the amount of voltage needed to be sent to the dual
electric fans and water pump based on coolant temperature. You can watch how this works on the three
voltage gauges installed where the ash tray used to reside. The only place
connectors were used were on parts that might need to be removed in the future
such as the stereo faceplate and voltmeters/indicator lights so quick
disconnects were used there. Everything
added on has separate fuse boxes as well, one front and one rear. One of my favorite upgrades is the
conversion of both the instrument cluster and the AC gauges to LED
lighting. This makes the car so much
nicer at night. (not that I've driven it, just sat in it with the lights off)
It's better than new and the needles
really pop. Combine this with the NEXUS
gauges whose color can be changed and dimmed with the remote and it’s a very
modern looking interior. While the dash
was out, the plastic cover on the instrument cluster was removed and
polished. That took it from hazy to
crystal clear. Now for what you really care about. The engine.
There’s well over $20k in the
engine bay. Just look through the parts
list below and it’s a who’s who of the best. The heart of the engine is a Jay Allen custom cam
oriented towards daily driving and made for boost. It was designed to have a nice idle with just
enough lope to let you know something is in there but provide good vacuum,
impeccable daily driving manners and monstrous power and torque throughout the
RPM range for those stop light to stop light sprints. A Bennett Racing 347 big bore (4.125”) short block
based on a Dart Iron Eagle block with Cometic gaskets insures the capability to
handle the highest boost pressure while Flow Tech Induction smog legal AFR
185’s with upgraded Beehive springs and top of the line Jesel rockers insure no
valve float at the highest RPM. A mother-of-all show quality crankcase
evac system was added to relieve the excessive pressure normally seen in
stroker and boosted motors. This is
essential as not having one will result in oil being sucked through the PCV
valve and into the intake coating the valves with oil, reducing engine life and
blowing out seals under boost. Most
folks simply plug off the PCV valve and run lines to a catch can and vent the
gases overboard. This can work, but with
several negative effects. This system
puts another check valve in-line with the PCV valve to keep boost out of the
crankcase while still providing the benefit of clean oil that a PCV system provides
at idle under vacuum. A 10AN fitting
welded into each show polished custom valve cover provides a robust evac path
under boost to two catch cans whose exhaust fumes are then fed back into the
engine to be burned (as designed) instead of being poured into the engine bay
and smelling up the interior. This car was built to drive every day in the hottest
weather without the car or driver overheating.
The AC system has all new lines, accumulator, condenser and evaporator
and was converted to R134. The AC system
was completely checked. A vacuum was
pulled and the system held it for 3 days no problem, so no leaks to worry
about. Freon was added until AC system
pressures were within specs and temperature ice cold. The heater core is also new. This beast sports a brand new set of 18x9 and 18x10
lightweight SVE Drift Wheels with new BF Goodrich 255/35/18 KDW tires on front
and 275/35/18 BF Goodrich Drag Radials on the rear. Here’s a list of parts on the car.
If you were to go out and buy all of these parts you
would be out over $55,000. Again, these
are new parts. That doesn’t include the thousands of hours of labor
to install anything, bodywork, paint work, custom wiring etc. With some of my description about driveability,
don’t get the idea this is a Lexus or Toyota.
This is a muscle car, with muscle car appeal. It hasn’t been driven to find out, but don’t
expect 35 mpg. Mileage will vary greatly
with how much your foot goes to the floor, but expect in the range of 17-21
highway driven conservatively. You will
hear this exhaust, the whine of a supercharger (depending which one you pick)
and a high performance valvetrain. All
wonderful noises to a muscle car enthusiast.
However it is also very refined for a car of this power level with sound
deadening, wonderful seats and modern creature comforts and electronics. Like most of this body style, smog
equipment has been removed to clean up the engine compartment but the car was
built to pass in California as the parts chosen were smog certified such as the
heads, headers etc and has catalytic converters. You may notice in the pics the EGR
recirculation tubing that attaches to the back of the heads is there (though of
course powdercoated chrome) with a polished brass blockoff. I have all smog equipment if you want it. It could be easily put back on, the upper
intake replaced with the stock Holley upper which has a CARB EO exemption (it
of course has been milled smooth, polished and painted- a show piece) If this
is what you want, I can do it…it just won’t look quite as good with the extra
hoses but it will still look incredible. This car will get attention. While this car has been completely
sorted through, it is still a 91 Mustang with 1991 design. It does have an Eaton Posi so you can lay twin
stripes but I would expect the rear end is slightly louder than stock. Come look at this car. You won’t be disappointed. No joyrides. No one will drive this car without money in
my hand and a commitment to buy. Whoever
does buy this car will be assured that this new combo has not been ragged on by
anyone as it will not be driven. The car
is titled in Texas and has not been registered so it can’t be driven except by
the new owner. If you don’t have financing or cash
already in place, do not bid. If you
have zero feedback I will cancel your bid unless you contact me. I would encourage any potential buyer to come
check the car out as pictures are much smaller than the car itself and it’s
always good to see in person. This is an old car and an extreme high
performance car and as such there is no warranty nor guarantee this car will
meet all the emissions criteria your state may have. This car has the popular modification of
removing the nontilt column with ugly airbag steering wheel and replacing it
with a tilt version and a race wheel. It
is the buyers responsibility to assume any risk with this removal and
understand state laws and implications regarding this. I have the stock column/airbag and can
provide this if desired. Shipping is the responsibility of the buyer to
arrange and pay for but I will assist the driver in loading. |
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Auto Services in Texas
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Auto blog
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