2004 Pontiac Gto,supercharged,forged Ls1,nitrous, 10 Second Daily Driver 650hp+ on 2040-cars
Miamisburg, Ohio, United States
located in dayton ohio
42k miles on body motor, trans,rear end and 90% of mods only have 5k miles on them. stock ls1 block forged internals manley rods,diamond pistons,ARP rod bolts,pac beehive springs,harland sharp rockers ect all good parts. tea ported 243 heads magnacharger mp112 2.75 pulley(10#s of boost) rpm level 6 transmission yank 3200 conveter comp cams xer blower cam g force center section and 1400hp axles 3.73 gears GForce Engineering 3.5" aluminum driveshaft with billet yoke bmr driveshaft saftey loop hot bits adjustable suspension(1.54 60ft best) GForce Engineering inner stubs and anit wheel hop half shafts 5 point cage W/swingouts and you can remove the bar that goes behind back seat cage is padded and 100% safe and comfortable for kids or people to ride in the back seat. alky water meth kit with kenne bell boost a pump and progressive meth controller Nitrous express nitrous kit with 10 # bottle,heater,purge wot switch. pioneer touch screen head unit with gps,blutooth,dvd line lock water to air intercooler can flip a switch and it pumps coolant to cool the blower, you can also put ice in the intercooler at the track and it helps alot. Im sure im forgetting some stuff it has all the supporting mods for cam ect i can get into internals and all that if anyone is interested. It made 640rwhp with the meth and blower only and has been 10.8 @ 130 hasnt been on the dyno or track with the dry kit but usually maggies pick up 100ish rwhp off a 75 dry shot so its safe to say it will go mid to low 10's pretty easily. still has ac,heat cruise all the creature comforts ect. I’ll start with the exterior and work my way in. The exterior has been done to look like the old “Judge” with custom stripes and Judge decals. I have an MPD hood, which looks like the ’69 Judge hood. I have Autocross grills and spoiler and an '05 rear bumper. The paint is in very good shape but there are a couple of marks and minor scratches. There is a small scratch on the side of the spoiler. I touched up the scratches so there is no rust anywhere. When it is cleaned up, the car is still near show quality, but it has been driven for four years so it can’t be perfect. The wheels are stock and in good shape I have stock size Dunlop FM901 tires on the front that have about 50% tread left and Nitto 555’s in 285-40-17 that are only a few months old on the back. They are at about 80% tread left with no burnouts done on them. And yes they fit, read the suspension section to see how. I did roll the rear fenders but that turned out to be unnecessary with the suspension mods.
The interior is red and the leather is in great shape. No noticeable wear on the seats. I installed an Arrowhead gauge pod and have Autometer Cobalt Boost and Nitrous gauges in it. I replaced the stock stereo and speakers with Pioneer products and have a 40w Pioneer Amp in the trunk. The stereo is an Avic N3 with navigation, DVD, XM, CD, AM and FM with working steering wheel controls. This setup was about $2000 for parts and installation. And the DVD bypass is active so your PASSENGER can watch DVD’s while you drive and pay attention to the road. Below that, in the ashtray, is a Nitrous Outlet control panel to work the nitrous. The only thing I don’t have is a remote bottle opener, but the switch is there if you ever want one. Below that, in the cubby, are two Aeroforce gauges in a custom mount. Chris White customized the DIC and replaced all of the speedo led’s with blue lights and red needles. It’s cool, during the day it looks normal but at night the speedo lights up with blue lights that match the cobalt gauges, stereo, and Aeroforce gauges. I also have a five point, NHRA legal roll cage. It was built by Dave Curtis, a well known and respected cage builder in Central Florida. It has a removable door bar and removable rear bar so getting in the back seat is still easy. Honestly, with the door and rear bars out, you hardly remember there is a cage there. There is also an RJS racing harness for the cage. I also installed a double Holden switch in the empty area behind the window switches. These switches control the SLP Line Lock and a manual intercooler pump control so I can run the intercooler pump to the supercharger when the engine is off at the track. The switches look stock and are in easy reach when at the track.
The trunk has been modified for weight savings. The gas tank brace and spare tire have been removed, but will come with the car. I have a ten pound nitrous bottle in the spare tire well with the blow off tube exiting under the car. I fabbed up a light weight wooden brace to attach the amp and it sits behind the rear fabric cover, in front of the gas tank. So when you open the trunk, it looks completely stock and there is no loss of space. While I’m back here, I’ll cover the gas tank mods. The stock fuel pump was replaced with an LPE high flow fuel pump. The bucket was modified to allow added flow to the pump as well. It more than adequately handles the demands the engine makes.
The suspension has been totally redone. There are Hotchkis sway bars, front and rear. A full Energy suspension bushing kit (I forget now what all came with the kit, but it was pretty comprehensive). There are Hot Bits coilovers up front, Hot Bits rear shocks with Pedders Drag Springs which raise the rear end about an inch over stock. That is why the wider tires fit, they never come close to bottoming out. The front is lower than stock and is adjustable. The car has a raked stance and looks like an old muscle car.Along with the g-froce center section and axles there is a BMR driveshaft safety loop installed which is required by NHRA. In the back I have a set of Dif Technics 3.73 gears with a Harrop differential cover. This combination, along with the suspension works great together. Wheel hop has been totally eliminated and I consistently cut 1.60 60’ times, with my best being a 1.54
While I’m under the car I’ll cover the exhaust, brakes, and skid plate. I have a Holden lightweight skid plate. This is a factory Holden piece that weighs only 5 pounds as apposed to the 15 pound stock piece. I replaced all of the brake rotors with Power Slots and the front pads are Hawks and the rears are EBC’s. I have Stainless Works headers and exhaust with no cats. The Stainless Works pieces are in many sections so if you wanted to put high flow cats on, only one section of each pipe needs to be removed and they make cats to put there. I think this is their quieter mufflers, but trust me, they are plenty loud, ask my neighbors!
There are literally too many things for me to list but I’ll hit the main things and things I can remember. It has a Magnacharger supercharger. The front pulley has been replaced with a South Florida Pulley Headquarters 2.75” pulley. I installed an ECS crank pulley and ECS tensioner pulley. This combination produces about 9 pounds of boost over the stock five pounds. There is a Comp Cams 222/230 XER cam installed. The cam specs are: 115+4 LSA, .581” lift intake and .592” lift exhaust. The airbox is from MPD and is made for the hood. One note, due to the height of the Maggie, the plenum in the hood had to be cut for clearance. The ram air tunnel still works, but most of the air is diverted onto the top of the Maggie. I look at it this way. The 5 hp I may loose due to the ram air not working efficiently is nothing compared to the 125+ hp gained from the supercharger. The air tube is fitted with ported MAF ends and goes into a ported LPE throttle body. There is a NLP catch can installed. I also have an NOS LS1 dry kit installed. The primary purpose for the nitrous is to cool the supercharger so I’m only using a 75 shot. The return is closer to 150rwhp because of the effect it has on the Maggie.
I have not had any issues with the motor at all. I have it checked out before I race by Mike Norris of Norris Motorsports, who did most of the work on the car throughout the years. Mike is also the person who tunes it and helped it make the power it makes. Mike is conservative by nature and ensures that the power the car makes is safe power. In fact, I have had no mechanical issues with this car.
I know this is going to sound contradictory, but I really have taken good care of this car. I race it at the track, but I am very careful about my preparation. When I’m not at the track I drive it fairly conservatively, considering what it is capable of. All scheduled maintenance is kept up religiously. I used only Mobil 1 oil and filters. I replaced the transmission fluid about 1k miles ago with non-synthetic fluid since the A4’s don’t like synthetic. I’ve also replaced the dif fluid a few times after doing the gears.
I was afraid to
actually do it, but if you added up all the parts I put on the car it would
approach $20,000 or more. I realize that the value of the parts now is nothing
compared to buying them new. I am merely stating how much I put into the car
after I purchased it to make it what it is now. You could purchase this car and
do nothing but keep it maintained and have a low 10 second car without
putting any more into it. I’m asking $25,000 for the car as is. That includes
the NOS system. The car will be sold in the exact condition it was in when I
raced.The car is race/street ready. NOTE: sold as is with no warranty or guarantee. I can be contacted by email at n.weimer AT gmail DOT com I have a walk around and a 40-140 video I can send for some reason ebay wont let me post the youtube links. or by phone at 5one3-7zero9-97two7
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