1966 Plymouth Sport Fury - 440, 4 Speed, A/c, Power Disc Brakes/steering, Posi on 2040-cars

 1966 Plymouth Sport Fury

Partial list of ingredients:  

- Forged Arias pistons (.030)
- Total Seal Gapless rings
- ARP rod bolts
- Clevite rod bearings
- Full groove main bearings
- Forged steel crankshaft
- reciprocating assembly was balanced to these pistons, rods and rings
- Crane 222/234 @ 50 cam w/ .494/.527 lift w/ 1.6:1 ductile forged rockers
- Manley custom pushrods
- New chrome moly rocker shafts shimmed to correct valve train geometry w/ rocker arms centered in valve stem tip
- main bearing bores align honed
- lifter bores honed
- windage tray
- Milodon high volume oil pump
- baffled Mopar Performance oil pan
- Z1215 valley tray with heat crossover blocked
- 750 double pump carb
- Hi-performance upswept exhaust manifolds
- 3200# clutch pressure plate
- Big block A833 trans with big rear bearing and big/thicker output shaft w/ ball & detent style shift linkage (old style)
- 742 housing 8.75 Suregrip rear axle w/ new outer axle seals
- Power disc brakes
- Firm Feel Police Power steering box (new in 2011)
- Heavy duty front (1.25") and rear (.75") sway bars
- All suspension bushings have been replaced

All machine work was done by Kammer & Kammer in Dayton Ohio

I built the motor and trans (trans has all new bearings/synchros/seals) in '99.  There are approximately 15,000 miles on everything now.  I reset the odometer (which was a little over 78,000) when the engine went in this car.  Car came originally with a 383.  When I got the car the engine was not original and was extremely lame/weak so I sold it along with the transmission attached.  

Original seats, door panels, headliner and carpet except the piece on the driver's side of the console which I replaced.  I repainted the dash and console and detailed the gauges.  Radio looks stock but is an 85 watt per channel AM/FM stereo with an Ipod jack in the glove box (along with a switched power socket) and a CD player under the driver's seat along with a power antenna.  The clock works.  I sent it out and had the movement upgraded to a quartz movement.  Everything works, even the hood turn signals and the backup lights.  

A/C blows cold and is very nice on a hot summer day. New A/C condensor and filter/dryer can in 2009 charged with R134.  

New heater water valve.  New heater core from Year One.  Rear brakes use the smaller diameter wheel cylinders from a '68 Imperial to help guard against rear wheel lockup.  Front discs and spindles come from a '73 Fury/Polara/Newport/New Yorker and you can still buy the rotors new from Advance/Autozone or anyone else.  The '68 to '72 rotors were 2 piece units that are very difficult to find new or usually worn out if used.  

Electrics - Lots of upgrades:  I have been through all the connections on both sides of the bulkhead block and pulled them out of the plastic block and soldered them before coating them with di-electric grease and reinserting/reconnecting.  A/C conpressor runs on its own circuit via a relay.  The main power feed from the alternator to the fuse panel and battery has been upgraded to #8 cable like a new car uses instead of the pathetic #12 from the factory.  The ammeter still works correctly but I added a #10 gauge shunt in line with it (like the factory did on 100 amp alternator cars) so it can't be overwhelmed and burn.  All my connections have been soldered and shrink wrapped.  The fuse panel is fed with #8 cable and the Accessory fuse panel is fed by # 8 cable with a 70 amp relay.  The fusible link is now inside the car under the dashboard with a 60 amp replaceable blade fuse and holder that could be used to hold an 80 amp fuse.  I was planning to add nitrous and was thinking ahead for bottle warmers and a 100 amp alternator.  Currently has a 60 amp alternator.  The typical weak spots that tended to melt down in the electrics of these cars have all been attended to.  The headlights are impressively bright at night and the turn signals still blink correctly even while sitting at idle with the headlights, A/C, and wipers on.  

The ignition switch was replaced last year and relays were added to handle the ignition circuit so you no longer have 30 amps of unfused current going through the ignition switch and the electronic ICM gets a full 12 volts at all times even during cranking.  Rebuilt the distributor at this time w/ new pickup and reluctor wheel.  

This is a fun reliable car.  It drives well and is very stable at any speed.  With the hefty sway bars, power disc brakes, firm feel steering box and P275/60/15 tires you can throw it into curves better than you might expect without any drama.  It also comes with many extra parts:  doors, glass, seats, inner fenders, etc.  I have the fender skirts in a matching color along with their matching trim pieces still attached.  All known body issues are shown in the pictures.  I have tried to be as up front as possible about these to save everyone time.  Please look closely at the pictures and then ask questions if you need more information.  I don't have much time to look at emails in the evenings, so please call me to get questions answered at (757) 318 - 9290 by 11 p.m. Eastern time. 

Terms of sale:  bank wire transfer preferred.  No trades considered.  Sale is for "As Is" condition with no warranty implied.  Call (757) 318 - 9290 before 11:00 p.m. Eastern time if you are interested in more information and thanks for looking.