Advertising:
1989 Mustang Gt 5.0 Convertible - 31k Original Miles - Clean!!! on 2040-cars
US $10,000.00
Year:1989
Mileage:31200
Color:
Location:
Fort Belvoir, Virginia, United States
Transmission:Manual
Body Type:Convertible
Vehicle Title:Clear
Engine:302
Fuel Type:Gasoline
For Sale By:Private Seller
Body Type:Convertible
Vehicle Title:Clear
Engine:302
Fuel Type:Gasoline
For Sale By:Private Seller
VIN: 1FABP45E3KF279966
Year: 1989
Number of Cylinders: 8
Make: Ford
Model: Mustang
Trim: GT
Options: CD Player, Convertible
Drive Type: 2-Wheel
Power Options: Air Conditioning, Power Windows
Mileage: 31,200
Sub Model: GT
Exterior Color: Cabernet Red
Number of Doors: 2
Interior Color: Gray
Warranty: Vehicle does NOT have an existing warranty
Number of Cylinders: 8
Make: Ford
Model: Mustang
Trim: GT
Options: CD Player, Convertible
Drive Type: 2-Wheel
Power Options: Air Conditioning, Power Windows
Mileage: 31,200
Sub Model: GT
Exterior Color: Cabernet Red
Number of Doors: 2
Interior Color: Gray
Warranty: Vehicle does NOT have an existing warranty
Condition: Used: A vehicle is considered used if it has been registered and issued a title. Used vehicles have had at least one previous owner. The condition of the exterior, interior and engine can vary depending on the vehicle's history. See the seller's listing for full details and description of any imperfections. ...
First and foremost - I do not want to sell this car. It is my baby. BUT, I have a family, so I need something more family efficient. I will tell you everything I know about this car, and all upgrades that have been accomplished. This car is very clean - it is not perfect, but VERY clean.
How did I get it?
I bought it in May 2010 from the grandson of the original owner. They took this car to car shows in Scranton PA. When I bought this car, it had 7,000 miles on it. The original rims were in the box, and there were other gold rims on the car (the stock rims were preserved from 1989-2010). When I bought the car I put the original rims on and sold the gold rims.
VERY IMPORTANT! This car was never beat - I never raced it, and I drive it very conservative. I have never seen over 100 MPH, although I know it will go much faster than that.
Upgrades/mods etc...
This car is MOSTLY original. Here is what I have done to it:
- Changed the OEM headlights to Angel Eye LED headlights (2012) $200
- Flowmaster American Thunder Exhaust (2011) $300
- Ford Shorty Headers (installed with $50 lock nuts so they will not come loose!) (2011) $400
- Replaced the OEM H-pipe with an X-pipe (I have the catalytic converters in a box) (2011) $200
- Bluetooth MP3 Stereo/replaced all speakers and added sub woofers in a box (in the trunk obviously) (2010) $500
- BBK Cold Air Intake (2011) $150
- BBK Mass Air Flow Sensor (2012) $200
- Windows are tinted (2010) $200
- Gears changed to 3.73 (I have original gears) (November, 2012) $150
--$2,300 in parts, not including labor --
Here is what has been replaced due to sheer age of parts:
- Spark plugs/distributor cap at 7K miles (2010) $50
- O2 sensors (2011) $100
- IAC Valve (2011) $100
- Replaced both quarter panel window motors (2011) $350
- Replaced manifold gasket at 29K miles (December 2012) $100
- Original antenna replaced with a smaller, low profile one (2012) $20
- Replaced windshield (a rock flew up and cracked it) (January 2013) $200
- Replaced radiator (I can't remember if it is a 2 or 3 core) (2011) $200
- Tires replaced at 7K miles - have ~24K miles on them (2010) $350
- Battery Replaced (2011) $100
- A/C was converted to the newer standard (BLOWS COLD) $150
--$1,620 in parts, not including labor --
Here are all of the known issues with this car (all minor):
- The top will need to be replaced sometime in the future. There are a couple small holes that have developed from age. I put some RV sealant on them for the time being, so the roof does not leak. I never drive it in the rain anyways, so it is not a big problem. Cost of replacement top ~$600.
- While the car is running cold, I get a sporadic check engine light that will flash on and off. After the car is warm, it does not return. I have tried to fix this, but to no avail (thus why I replaced O2 sensors, IAC valve, etc). This has never and does not affect the performance of the car at all. I think there is a short somewhere, but I just cannot find it.
- There are a couple small dings on the car. I am not looking at the car right this second, but I know there is one near the drivers side handle, and there are also some other dimples in a concentrated area. This was like this when I bought the car, so not sure what happened here. This can certainly be fixed, I just never got around to it. It is really not THAT much of an eye sore, or I would have had it fixed by now. If you are concerned with this, I can walk around the car and take some detailed pictures.
- I believe there is a light stain on the passenger side floor that was under the floormat when I bought the car. I have black 5.0 floormats, so I forgot it was there until I really started thinking about every single little flaw as I type this up.
- The paint is not perfect. Some oxidation is beginning to occur because of the age of the paint. I took some pictures to depict this.
- There are some scratches here and there on the paint. Nothing down to the bare metal or anything (all pretty light), but here and there. If you would like more pictures, let me know and I can go around and try to capture all of these.
- The ashtray is present, but I cannot get it to stay closed. The lid stays open. I rigged it somewhat with a screw, but the entire piece is present and intact. I replaced the spring, but it fell out of place again...
- When the top is down, and you put the gray boot on, there is a clip on the back of the car that is broke. It is the black piece where the boot tucks in. There was once a screw inside that connected to the body of the car, but it broke. This might be an issue when putting the boot on, but it can be fixed (I have not got around to it).
- The cruise does not work, and it has not since I bought it. The piece that runs to the servo needs to be reconnected.
What is included?
All original paperwork, window sticker, manuals, and cassette tapes will be included. I also have a black lettering kit that I never put on, and also have black tape left (the black tape that goes around the trim). There is a spare tire in the trunk. I have some original parts, but they are in PA in storage. I have the original stereo (brand new condition), headlights, and other miscellaneous parts. We can discuss the acquisition of this stuff, although there will be an additional cost. We can discuss this further.
Bottom line. This car runs strong and idles perfect (it sounds GREAT), and it has never been raced. It is not perfect, and I tried to describe everything as accurate as possible, HOWEVER, it will not take much to fix the minor issues to get this car looking like a show car (I could probably show it as-is right now). I lived in NM from 2010-2012, so the car was driven on sunny days (90% of the year) and has always stayed out bad weather. If you find any rust underneath the car it will be VERY minimal. You will have to look hard to find any. This car is clean, so don't miss out on this opportunity!
How did I get it?
I bought it in May 2010 from the grandson of the original owner. They took this car to car shows in Scranton PA. When I bought this car, it had 7,000 miles on it. The original rims were in the box, and there were other gold rims on the car (the stock rims were preserved from 1989-2010). When I bought the car I put the original rims on and sold the gold rims.
VERY IMPORTANT! This car was never beat - I never raced it, and I drive it very conservative. I have never seen over 100 MPH, although I know it will go much faster than that.
Upgrades/mods etc...
This car is MOSTLY original. Here is what I have done to it:
- Changed the OEM headlights to Angel Eye LED headlights (2012) $200
- Flowmaster American Thunder Exhaust (2011) $300
- Ford Shorty Headers (installed with $50 lock nuts so they will not come loose!) (2011) $400
- Replaced the OEM H-pipe with an X-pipe (I have the catalytic converters in a box) (2011) $200
- Bluetooth MP3 Stereo/replaced all speakers and added sub woofers in a box (in the trunk obviously) (2010) $500
- BBK Cold Air Intake (2011) $150
- BBK Mass Air Flow Sensor (2012) $200
- Windows are tinted (2010) $200
- Gears changed to 3.73 (I have original gears) (November, 2012) $150
--$2,300 in parts, not including labor --
Here is what has been replaced due to sheer age of parts:
- Spark plugs/distributor cap at 7K miles (2010) $50
- O2 sensors (2011) $100
- IAC Valve (2011) $100
- Replaced both quarter panel window motors (2011) $350
- Replaced manifold gasket at 29K miles (December 2012) $100
- Original antenna replaced with a smaller, low profile one (2012) $20
- Replaced windshield (a rock flew up and cracked it) (January 2013) $200
- Replaced radiator (I can't remember if it is a 2 or 3 core) (2011) $200
- Tires replaced at 7K miles - have ~24K miles on them (2010) $350
- Battery Replaced (2011) $100
- A/C was converted to the newer standard (BLOWS COLD) $150
--$1,620 in parts, not including labor --
Here are all of the known issues with this car (all minor):
- The top will need to be replaced sometime in the future. There are a couple small holes that have developed from age. I put some RV sealant on them for the time being, so the roof does not leak. I never drive it in the rain anyways, so it is not a big problem. Cost of replacement top ~$600.
- While the car is running cold, I get a sporadic check engine light that will flash on and off. After the car is warm, it does not return. I have tried to fix this, but to no avail (thus why I replaced O2 sensors, IAC valve, etc). This has never and does not affect the performance of the car at all. I think there is a short somewhere, but I just cannot find it.
- There are a couple small dings on the car. I am not looking at the car right this second, but I know there is one near the drivers side handle, and there are also some other dimples in a concentrated area. This was like this when I bought the car, so not sure what happened here. This can certainly be fixed, I just never got around to it. It is really not THAT much of an eye sore, or I would have had it fixed by now. If you are concerned with this, I can walk around the car and take some detailed pictures.
- I believe there is a light stain on the passenger side floor that was under the floormat when I bought the car. I have black 5.0 floormats, so I forgot it was there until I really started thinking about every single little flaw as I type this up.
- The paint is not perfect. Some oxidation is beginning to occur because of the age of the paint. I took some pictures to depict this.
- There are some scratches here and there on the paint. Nothing down to the bare metal or anything (all pretty light), but here and there. If you would like more pictures, let me know and I can go around and try to capture all of these.
- The ashtray is present, but I cannot get it to stay closed. The lid stays open. I rigged it somewhat with a screw, but the entire piece is present and intact. I replaced the spring, but it fell out of place again...
- When the top is down, and you put the gray boot on, there is a clip on the back of the car that is broke. It is the black piece where the boot tucks in. There was once a screw inside that connected to the body of the car, but it broke. This might be an issue when putting the boot on, but it can be fixed (I have not got around to it).
- The cruise does not work, and it has not since I bought it. The piece that runs to the servo needs to be reconnected.
What is included?
All original paperwork, window sticker, manuals, and cassette tapes will be included. I also have a black lettering kit that I never put on, and also have black tape left (the black tape that goes around the trim). There is a spare tire in the trunk. I have some original parts, but they are in PA in storage. I have the original stereo (brand new condition), headlights, and other miscellaneous parts. We can discuss the acquisition of this stuff, although there will be an additional cost. We can discuss this further.
Bottom line. This car runs strong and idles perfect (it sounds GREAT), and it has never been raced. It is not perfect, and I tried to describe everything as accurate as possible, HOWEVER, it will not take much to fix the minor issues to get this car looking like a show car (I could probably show it as-is right now). I lived in NM from 2010-2012, so the car was driven on sunny days (90% of the year) and has always stayed out bad weather. If you find any rust underneath the car it will be VERY minimal. You will have to look hard to find any. This car is clean, so don't miss out on this opportunity!
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