1934 Ford Hotrod Pickup Truck **60's Show Car** Nailhead Cover Car With Videos!! on 2040-cars
San Clemente, California, United States
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Let me start out by saying that I appreciate all of the would-be offers, but I’m not interested in a trade of any kind. I am trying to amass money for a down payment on a home, which is the only reason that I am selling my pride and joy. I build hotrods and motorcycles for a living, and I built this one for myself, and took every step to ensure that each aspect of it was well designed and built properly in order to give it, what I believe, is a great 60’s show-car look. I couldn’t possibly add up how many hours I have put into creating this truck, but I can tell you that it’s A LOT! You would be hard pressed to find a more extensively built early hotrod pickup. Nearly every piece was hand built from scratch. I finished building this truck about a year and a half ago, and for the past year it has been my only car, so when I refer to it as a “daily driver”, I mean it as in “I drive it every day because I don’t have the option of another car” – this truck runs and drives GREAT and has a soft ride. You can go 80mph down the freeway with one finger on the wheel. It is very reliable. This truck has a clear title and is registered as a 1934 Ford truck. Every part on this car is either chromed, powder-coated, or professionally painted. Everything else that was old has been completely rebuilt, using new high-quality racing parts. Nothing on this car needs work or attention. GET IN AND GO! This truck has been in magazines and has won awards. It is currently on the cover, and is featured in, Gasoline Magazine. I am posting two Youtube videos of the truck. The first one was from a while ago and you’ll notice the tall spoked rear wheels and different exhaust headers. That video is just to show how much fun this truck is. It also solidifies the fact that this thing is pretty bullet-proof and is meant to be driven. The second video is how the car looks now, with slicks and elliptical headers – all washed and waxed and pretty. Details and specifications: I am going to give a quick run-down on each section of the car. I could easily write a novel if I wanted, but I’ll try to keep it somewhat brief. If you want any specifics, or if you have any questions, feel free to call or text me at (949) 690-3770 or email me at IanLoska@yahoo.com. First, the two things on this truck that you’ll never see on any other hotrod are the front axle, and the frame. For the axle, I started with two stock 1936 Ford front axles and, using a jig, hand built it to wrap around the grill. It is boxed in the rear, and under the boxing, it is reinforced again with another layer of 3/8” plate steel. It looks good, serves as a bumper (that I’ll hopefully never use), allows for me to run my car at its current height, and it also keeps the proper wheelbase and proportions without having my front end way out in space. And for the frame, I hand built it from 0.125” wall steel. The holes punched in it are both round and elliptical as seen in the photos. The frame not only swoops and curves up, but also inward - if you look closely. Body: When I came up with the idea for building this car, I searched for months for a body worthy of starting with. I finally found a matching cab, bed, and grill that were all original and un-cut 1934 Henry Ford steel. I chopped the roof of the cab six inches. I also welded in 1936 Ford lower cowl panels so that, what is normally a “boxy” cab, would have curves to match the frame. I also built a fully integral roll-cage in the cab for safety. The bed was shortened 12 inches. The inside of the bed is epoxy painted gloss black, and the wood is all solid oak planks stained with a marine grade polyurethane. When I disassembled my truck for paint, the grill, cab, and bed were all media blasted down to bare steel. I then took it to my friend Miguel Torres, from the Lifters Car Club in San Diego, to do all of the bodywork and paint. He and his team of skilled metal workers worked for over two months with a torch and a hammer and dolly to get all of the sheet metal completely straight before even beginning to do the bodywork and prepping for paint. After priming and blocking everything, the truck was painted with Dupont – out of state paint – not the low-grade, water based California EPA paint. It is a metallic Merlot that looks better in person than in the photos. Chassis: I already mentioned the frame, which is totally chromed, and also the integral roll-cage in the cab. Also already mentioned is the front axle. On the custom front axle is a set of 1940 Ford juice brakes . This truck has lever shocks front and back. The rear-end is a Dana 40 that was fully rebuilt with custom axles from Dutchman Axle Co. The rear suspension has beefy tube trailing arms mounted on 1 1/2” heims with a 1940 Ford front spring for the suspension. Engine and transmission: The motor is a 401 cubic inch Nailhead from a 1964 Buick Electra. I have receipts for my motor which was COMPLETELY rebuilt. It was bored out 0.060” over with a larger cam and upgraded rockers. It also now has an Offenhauser dual-quad intake and custom built headers. When this motor was stock it was rated at 325 horsepower with 445 foot pounds of torque. I haven’t Dyno-tested my truck with the new motor, but I can guarantee that it has more power than any vehicle this light should have. It also has a new high-torque starter to help with all that compression. The transmission is a Muncie 4-speed with a Hurst shifter out of a 1969 Camaro. Interior: The interior is white tuck and roll with piping that matches the color of the car. The transmission cover and other floor panels have been powder-coated black. The steering wheel is from a 1960’s race boat. Wheels and tires: When I first built this car, I used 21” Model A wheels front and back. In the video I posted with the burnout, you can see them. I reinforced the rear wheels with 3/8 steel spokes so that they wouldn’t fold on me. I recently changed the rears to a set of 15” spoked Cragar’s with brand new (I mounted them yesterday) Radir cheater slicks. I changed to the slicks to help with my traction issues (even though burnouts are more fun), and also to help with the “period correctness” of being a 1960’s show-car. The front tires are semi-new from Lester Tire Co. The wheels are all powder-coated. Other Miscellaneous: The gas tank is custom built and holds about 22 gallons, so you can take a long trip without needing a refill. The headers are not the typical cone style headers you see on most hotrods. Look closely, you’ll see that the cones are elliptical. I hand built them and also some baffles to go inside. This truck has a nice rumble but is quiet enough as to not be annoying. The baffles can easily be removed if you want to make your neighbors angry though! Like I previously mentioned, if you have any questions, feel free to call or text me at (949) 690-3770 or email me at IanLoska@yahoo.com. Feel free to come and see the car in person before bidding. GOOD LUCK! On Apr-28-14 at 18:15:47 PDT, seller added the following information: ***************************************UPDATE********************************UPDATE********************************************UPDATE*********************************************** Like I stated, the day before I listed my truck for sale on eBay, I put those brand new Radir slicks as well as those Cragar spoked wheels on the rear of my truck. Today when I was leaving the shop, I really got on it to impress some of my friends (never a good idea), and afterward when I got home I heard some creaking coming from the rear of the truck. I drove around with my friend in the bed of the truck and we found out that the noise was coming from the Cragar wheels. I guess when I got on it, I loosened the spokes from their aluminum hub (too much power???), and now when driving slow you can hear a creaking noise from the rear wheels. I will still give the wheels to whoever buys the truck if you want them, but I don't want to sell my truck with any issues so I just now went to a wheel shop near me and ordered some steel wheels with the same offset which I will get tomorrow and have powder-coated the same color. I will have the cheater slicks mounted on them before the week's end. And on another side note, I also still have the tall 21" wire wheels that I used to have mounted on the truck (the ones seen in the burnout video). The tires on those wheels are still good and were very pricey. I will give those wheels and tires to whoever wins the auction. So, to sum all that up, I am having new steel wheels powder-coated and mounted on the rear with the slicks - which will be on the truck when it is sold. I will also give you the set of 21" rear wheels with good tubes and tires. Keep the questions coming, and anyone else who would like to come see the truck before bidding, please call me at (949) 690-3770. Thanks, Ian |
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