1973 Ford F100 Custom on 2040-cars
Reno, Nevada, United States
1973 Ford F100 CustomThe New Stuff
The GoodThe truck came with dealer installed air conditioning that was not belted and did not work at the time I got the truck. However, all the pieces, with the exception of the condenser come with the truck. This incluedes the pump, under-dash radiator, hoses, fittings, and fan. This truck is fitted with the in-dash, fake wood paneled controls which still work. This truck also has its original(!) spare, belted tire and spare tire securing bar. It also has working dual tanks. It passes Washoe County smog, is currently registered, and runs like a champ! The truck is was just tuned up, all fluids changed, new air cleaner, plugs, cap and rotor. It got a rocking Motorcraft 2100 "Pony" carb, timed to 10° BTC, and with the electric choke, fires second crank everytime. It has a "4" speed, 3-speed with a 'granny' gear. It has the ubiquitous chunky, diamond plate bumper with 3K tow ball and electrical hook ups, although I'm not sure that's a plus.Nearly new Hancock 70,000 mile stock tires on repainted original steel rims and hup caps, with only a couple thousand miles on them.
This is the original engine that came with it and, although I redid the heads and upper end, is the original short block, water pump, oil pump, and all original bearings and cam. They have always been good to me, hold compression, and, with the upgrades, give plenty of power. However, it is the original Ford 360 FE for trucks. I was in the midst of customizing it, when I ran out of steam for this project. I was setting it up to drop in a new 390 (thus the 3 inch exhaust) along with an original 70's wood flat-bed, and then new I-beams and shackles.
The BadI've always loved the patina of an old classic car and have always left the blemishes, chips and dings that the car or truck has accumulated over its storied life. To that affect, I've left the body and paint work as I found it. Chips from winter road sand, the wear on the door window from leaning an arm out while taking in the air, the run of rust from the accumulated cab humidity trickling down the ceiling posts. I've left them all for another to keep or paint over. The major areas of rusting, such as the floor pans on both sides have been cleaned up, rust inhibited painted, and patched with riveted aluminum plates. They were then filled in with sealant. I had started to address the rust issues at the bottom of the doors, fender wells, and along the lower body edges, all cosmetic with only a small amount of pitting. Sometime, most likely back in the 80's, was horribly repainted in original sky blue. Otherwise the body is all straight! The worst body issues are with the rear bed quarter panels, left and right, under the taillights (of course!). The bottom of the panels are rusted out, and, most likely at the same time as the paint job, were bondo'd over. This body filler is now cracking off and will have to be addressed (or not, it's only cosmetic of course!). The last thing I had to get to was repairing the tailgate. It was used primarily as a camper truck with a cab over camper installed which necessitated the removal of the tailgate. At some point, someone forgot to check if the truck was in reverse when he started it, and backed it, however gently, into a steel post denting, and twisting the driver's side taillight assembly. This twisted the mounting for the tailgate stricker plate. Rookie move. Update: I've taken the door mirrors off to install new rubber, and they will be installed and fixed before sale. Also, the passenger side inner door handle broke inexplicably and will also be replaced before sale.The DetailsThis truck has taken me up and down Nevada and California an has never let me down. It's great on the road or in the dirt, always starts, and handles everything I can throw at it. It has power brakes and steering and is easy to drive. With that said, it is a 40 year old truck with a venerable, if tough, Ford big block FE engine, and will need someone who knows about old cars and trucks to keep in tip top shape. From timing, to carb adjustment, it takes constant and time consuming care to keep running great. Would I drive it across country? Yes, however, I'd pack in new belts, plugs, a case of oil, power steering fluid, radiator fluid, and an extensive tool box, if you catch my drift. It is sold AS IS without a warranty. There is a $500 deposit due within 24 hours of sale and the remainder in cash within 7 days of the end of the auction. I will, of course, try my hardest to help you pick up your new truck from here in Reno, NV. Bada-bing, bada-boom, it's easy. Notice: It is listed for sale locally, and as such, this auction may end prior to its listed ending. On Nov-24-13 at 18:32:30 PST, seller added the following information: 1973 Ford F100 CustomThe New Stuff
The GoodThe truck came with dealer installed air conditioning that was not belted and did not work at the time I got the truck. However, all the pieces, with the exception of the condenser come with the truck. This incluedes the pump, under-dash radiator, hoses, fittings, and fan. This truck is fitted with the in-dash, fake wood paneled controls which still work. This truck also has its original(!) spare, belted tire and spare tire securing bar. It also has working dual tanks. It passes Washoe County smog, is currently registered, and runs like a champ! The truck is was just tuned up, all fluids changed, new air cleaner, plugs, cap and rotor. It got a rocking Motorcraft 2100 "Pony" carb, timed to 10° BTC, and with the electric choke, fires second crank everytime. It has a "4" speed, 3-speed with a 'granny' gear. It has the ubiquitous chunky, diamond plate bumper with 3K tow ball and electrical hook ups, although I'm not sure that's a plus.
Nearly new Hancock 70,000 mile stock tires on repainted original steel rims and hup caps, with only a couple thousand miles on them. This is the original engine that came with it and, although I redid the heads and upper end, is the original short block, water pump, oil pump, and all original bearings and cam. They have always been good to me, hold compression, and, with the upgrades, give plenty of power. However, it is the original Ford 360 FE for trucks. I was in the midst of customizing it, when I ran out of steam for this project. I was setting it up to drop in a new 390 (thus the 3 inch exhaust) along with an original 70's wood flat-bed, and then new I-beams and shackles.
The BadI've always loved the patina of an old classic car and have always left the blemishes, chips and dings that the car or truck has accumulated over its storied life. To that affect, I've left the body and paint work as I found it. Chips from winter road sand, the wear on the door window from leaning an arm out while taking in the air, the run of rust from the accumulated cab humidity trickling down the ceiling posts. I've left them all for another to keep or paint over. The major areas of rusting, such as the floor pans on both sides have been cleaned up, rust inhibited painted, and patched with riveted aluminum plates. They were then filled in with sealant. I had started to address the rust issues at the bottom of the doors, fender wells, and along the lower body edges, all cosmetic with only a small amount of pitting. Sometime, most likely back in the 80's, it was horribly repainted in original sky blue. Otherwise the body is all straight! The worst body issues are with the rear bed quarter panels, left and right, under the taillights (of course!). The bottom of the panels are rusted out, and, most likely at the same time as the paint job, were bondo'd over. This body filler is now cracking off and will have to be addressed (or not, it's only cosmetic of course!). The last thing I had to get to was repairing the tailgate. It was used primarily as a camper truck with a cab over camper installed which necessitated the removal of the tailgate. At some point, someone forgot to check if the truck was in reverse when he started it, and backed it, however gently, into a steel post denting, and twisting the driver's side taillight assembly. This twisted the mounting for the tailgate stricker plate. Rookie move. Update: I've taken the door mirrors off to install new rubber, and they will be installed and fixed before sale. Also, the passenger side inner door handle broke inexplicably and will also be replaced before sale.UPDATESome more pics for you which I seem to have over looked adding to this. A Full side view of both sides, it's a bit dusty due to a rain storm we just had. Also a couple back end shot. Also, to combine some questions, it'sThe DetailsThis truck has taken me up and down Nevada and California an has never let me down. It's great on the road or in the dirt, always starts, and handles everything I can throw at it. It has power brakes and steering and is easy to drive. With that said, it is a 40 year old truck with a venerable, if tough, Ford big block FE engine, and will need someone who knows about old cars and trucks to keep in tip top shape. From timing, to carb adjustment, it takes constant and time consuming care to keep running great. Would I drive it across country? Yes, however, I'd pack in new belts, plugs, a case of oil, power steering fluid, radiator fluid, and an extensive tool box, if you catch my drift. It is sold AS IS without a warranty. There is a $500 deposit due within 24 hours of sale and the remainder in cash within 7 days of the end of the auction. I will, of course, try my hardest to help you pick up your new truck from here in Reno, NV. Bada-bing, bada-boom, it's easy. Notice: It is listed for sale locally, and as such, this auction may end prior to its listed ending. If you're here in Reno and want to take it for a spin, let me know! On Nov-24-13 at 18:42:26 PST, seller added the following information: I have no idea how to ebay! Sorry for the mess! |
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