1968 Wm300 Dodge Power Wagon on 2040-cars
Louisville, Colorado, United States
1968 WM300 Dodge Power
Wagon
Frame up, custom restoration, 300h.p.-V8
I bought this Powerwagon on 04-30-02,
with the intention of making it my daily driver. Then I changed directions with this project
by deciding that I wanted to build this truck to my specifications, a truck that
there would not be a road it could not travel.
All of this while keeping as many of the things that make a Powerwagon a
Powerwagon intact. I began by
disassembling everything, and having all parts sandblasted. Everything that could be taken apart was
taken apart and cleaned. When it was put
back together, all bearings, bushings and seals were replaced. The axles had 5.83 gears, so I bought and
installed new 4.89 ring and pinions, so it could move with modern traffic. And for the go anywhere part, had a locker
put in the rear differential. The front
axle is probably my favorite thing about a Powerwagon. Stronger than a Dana 60, and when in four
wheel drive and turning hard, no loping that you get with u-joints. In my opinion it is the best front axle for
rough use because the steering tie rod is protected behind the front axle. Living in
Colorado, I decided that I wanted a little more horsepower to help move this
heavy beast of a truck over high mountain passes. I found a couple of Mopar guys to help me
out. They rebuilt a 1972 Chrysler 318
for the truck. It was bored .30 over
with high compression pistons, a performance cam and dual plane intake manifold
for torque. Along with electronic
ignition, holley carb, and Edelbroc air intake. This balanced and blueprinted engine was
finished with an 11 quart severe service oil pan, and 2 1/2 inch dual exhaust. I kept the stock NP420 transmission and NP
200 transfer case. This allowed the use
of the Powerwagon p.t.o. I was able to
keep the winch lever in its original location.
I had to modify the driveshaft of the winch to work with a larger
engine. Everything works perfectly. The winch has 250 feet of new 7/16 inch cable,
with a company mounted tow hook. The things that I changed were to
increase comfort, safety, and drivability.
The “custom” part. These include
front disc brakes, power steering, larger engine, hanging pedals, and
lap/shoulder seat belts. Also in the cab
a dome light, driver and passenger side electric windshield wipers, which have
switches on the driver’s side to control both.
In the glove box is a Pioneer CD player with remote, an automatic
antenna that goes up when the radio is turned on, and 4 speakers, 2 – 6x9’s
behind the seat and 2- 6 1/2 inch rounds
in the kick panels under the dash.
There are also 2- 12 volt outlets, to keep all your gadgets
charged. I also added cowl lights, fog
lights, and an electric windshield washer.
Along with a tach, hour meter, and master switch. When I had
the cab off, I had it sand blasted. Then
I primed it with etching primer. After
that I put spray on bed liner on the fire wall and floor, both on the inside and
outside, to deaden sound. It has all new
glass and weather stripping. Also a new headliner
and all new wiring throughout the truck.
This is the deluxe cab with wing windows, sun visors, and a driver side
arm rest. When rebuilding this truck,
one of my main concerns was having the metal protected from rust. I removed all parts and brackets for
sandblasting. Then I used self-etching
primer, then a single stage paint on all frame parts and brackets. Everything is protected. All sides were covered and I let them harden,
before assembling everything using grade 8 bolts. Any specialty types of bolts or fasteners
that were Powerwagon specific were wire-brushed clean and reused. When I decided
to use the Michelin XL military tires, I had 2 1/2 inch riser blocks made for the front, and 1 1/4 inch blocks on the rear to help level the
truck out, and make more clearance for
the 11.00 R 16, 38 inch tires. I also had new, larger 5/8 inch u-bolts made
for a little extra strength. The shocks
are NOS, and about the size of semi-tractor shocks. The same guy that made the riser blocks also
made the custom stainless steel gas tank.
It is wider than the original, and because I wanted it up and out of the
way, it is not as deep. It still holds
28 gallons. Plus there are 2 - 5 gallon
gas cans mounted, one on each side of the bed.
I also had him extend the pitman arm to keep the geometry right. Since these Michelin tires are getting harder
to find, I went ahead and got 2 for spares.
They are a directional tread anyway so there is one for each side. The tires should last forever, since there
are the 2 spares to rotate into the mix. When I was
restoring this truck, I wanted it to be better than new. My main concern was with the mechanical
aspect of it. All housings and cases were totally cleaned, all bearings,
bushings, gears, and seals have been replaced.
From every u-joint to all grease zerks have been replaced. New brakes, brake lines, master cylinder, and
all parts are new. The fuel line is new,
and has been insulated all the way to the carburetor. All hoses, belts, wiring, and lights are
new. The only thing that I might have
spent more time on was some of the finish.
I left the fenders, running boards and tailgate a little rough, but my
thought was that I was going to use this truck and besides if I decided to
later, you can buy remanufactured ones that would be perfect. The only things I can think of that don’t
work are the alternator gauge and temperature gauge. I have a new sending unit for the temperature
gauge; it is included, but not installed.
The alternator gauge needs to be replaced. Also the speedometer is slow
from changing axle gears and the larger tires.
I will see about getting it re-geared. I have a few manuals and parts
that will go with the truck. All
pamphlets and instructions will be included.
There are probably things I forgot to mention about, like the engine
heater, the reinforced rear cross member with pintle hitch, and shackles front
and rear, lock out hubs, and locking door handles. There is a jack, a breaker bar with 1 1/2 inch socket for the lug nuts, spindle nut socket, and extra wiper blades. This truck has no leaks. It has 2 sets of keys that separate, with a
master key and door key on one side, and an ignition key and second door key on
the other side. I have included a legend
for the switches on the dash and one for the fuse block. This vehicle has always been kept in the
garage. The odometer reads 49 miles,
since the restoration. Since the speedometer
is slow, I had my wife follow me and I have had it up to 70 mph and it had room
for more. The person who helped me with
the drive train on this truck is the author of a drive train manual for Powerwagons. It has
a clear Colorado title. Please email any
questions. Thanks. This truck is being sold As Is. There is no warranty, expressed or implied. The buyer is responsible to thoroughly inspect
this vehicle to satisfy him or her regarding the condition of the vehicle. Bids should be based on the bidder’s judgment
not just on the description in the ad. After
the sale the seller is not responsible for any repairs. Payment: Buyer has 7 days to pay with certified check. The truck will not be available for pickup or
shipping until full payment is received and cleared by our local bank. |
Dodge Power Wagon for Sale
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- Hemi 5.7 liter automatic alloys 4x4 bedliner cold ac very clean(US $17,995.00)
- Two 1976 dodge powerwagons(US $3,395.00)
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Zarlingo`s Automotive Svc Ctr ★★★★★
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