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1966 Dodge Monaco Base 6.3l on 2040-cars
Year:1966
Mileage:15623
Location:
San Fernando, California, United States
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1966 Dodge Monaco Sedan - Newly Rebuilt Engine and Transmission Up for auction is a 1966 Dodge Monaco sedan. It has a 383 V-8 with an A727 Torqueflite transmission. Each area of the car is described in detail below. Please look at the pictures: if you need pictures of something specific, please ask. Engine The engine was professionally rebuilt by Eddings Engine in San Fernando at a cost of more than $2000, and has less than 30 miles on it. The engine was bored .30 over with new pistons, rings, bearings, camshaft, timing set, and expansion/core plugs. The heads were also professionally rebuilt by Sylmar Head Exchange with new valves, valve guides, springs, and seals. Once I got the heads and engine back, I put in all new parts: new lifters, pushrods, rocker arm shaft, and rocker arms, oil pump, and oil pump drive. Everything but the heads was painted in Chrysler Turquoise. The intake manifold, timing chain cover, oil pan, and valve covers were cleaned and painted. All new Fel Pro gaskets and seals were used on everything. The alternator, water pump, and fan clutch are new. The starter is new. The power steering pump is original, but works well. All belts and hoses are new. The radiator was professionally cleaned and painted by The Radiator Works in Northridge. Most of the bolts used to attach various parts to the engine (water pump housing, intake manifold, etc.) are new reproduction. I installed a correct set of reproduction plug wire routing brackets. The motor mounts are new. Of course, all fluids are new. The distributor, cap, plugs, and plug wires are new. I converted the points to a Pertronix Ignitor II with a Flamethrower coil. The engine starts right up and runs well, with no leaks, smoke, odd noises, or any other problems. Fuel The 2-barrel Stromberg WWC carburetor was professionally rebuilt by Carbs Only in Burbank. The fuel pump is new. I replaced all rubber sections of the fuel line from the fuel pump back to the tank. The tank was professionally cleaned and painted by The Radiator Works in Burbank. I installed a new sending unit, lock ring, and gasket. There is a new gas cap and a new "donut" seal between the filler pipe and the tank. The tank straps are in good shape. There are no fuel leaks. Transmission/Drivetrain The transmission was professionally rebuilt by Victor Transmission in San Fernando at a cost of about $900. The transmission cooler lines are new. The universal joints, at both the transmission and differential end, are new. The rear differential has not been touched: it doesn't make any noises, but it does have a small drip from the flange seal after the car is driven. The transmission pan has a small leak from the pan gasket: the rebuilder used a cork gasket, and it should probably be replaced by a rubber gasket with sealer. It's annoying, but an easy fix. The transmission shifts very well and does not "bang" into gear. Suspension/Brakes All front brake parts are new. I converted the front drums to front discs using the kit from Scarebird. All new rotors, pads, calipers, hoses, and other parts were used. I had to convert the wheels to 15", so I bought new 15" wheels and Cooper 15" white-stripe tires. The tires have less than 30 miles on them. I also had to replace the original 14" hubcaps with some 15" hubcaps: they are from a '67 or '68 Polara, but are in fantastic shape and look good. The original hubcaps will come with the car. The rear brakes are all new except for the drums (which are hard to find). The drums were in good shape so they were just cleaned up. I also installed a new master cylinder and power booster, and installed new brake lines where necessary. The brakes stop very well. The front suspension is mostly new: all control arm bushings, shocks, sway bar bushings, strut bushings, ball joints, tie rods, rubber bumpers, and idler arm. The Pitman arm and steering box have not been touched, but the car steers well. It will need a front-end alignment. The rear springs, bushings, and hangers are new: I replaced the sagging original 5-leaf springs with new 7-leaf springs. The rear shocks are new. Interior/Electrical There are some bulbs in the taillight and turn signals that need to be replaced, but the brake light and turn signals work. All gauges work. The radio works after it warms up: this car has the two-speaker AM radio, with a knob you use to balance sound between the front and rear speaker. Some interior lights work, some do not: I think some of the bulbs are burned out. It probably needs a new headlight switch. The headlight switch turns the headlights on and off fine, but its dimmer function doesn't work. I lubed the speedometer cable, and it doesn't make any noise, but the speedometer needle sways a little at speed. The car was originally equipped with AC, but before I got the car, someone had taken most of the AC components. I have the compressor and some other parts, and they will come with the car. The blower motor doesn't work. All windows go up and down fine, and the vent windows work. All locks work fine. The doors open and close well, except for the driver's door, which has to be slammed to close properly. The front and rear seats will need to be reupholstered. The carpet is OK, but should be replaced. The door panels are OK, but should be refurbished. I took the rear door panels off to do some lubrication, but they will come with the car. The dash pad is cracked and faded and should be replaced. The steering wheel has some cracking and should be refurbished, but the horn works great. The headliner is perfect. The weatherstripping throughout the car needs to be replaced. Body The car was repainted at some point by a previous owner: it was a cheap job, but it seems to have prevented rust. The car has no rust through at all. The floor pan, trunk pan, and underbody are rust free. There is surface rust on the driver's-side rear door, and some small areas of surface rust on other parts of the body, but absolutely no rot. This car has been in California its whole life, as shown by the original Certicard in the engine compartment. There bumpers are in OK shape: they could be polished, but should probably be re-chromed. The chrome trim is in good shape: the only exception is the front part of the driver's-side trim, which is missing because of a small dent in the front fender. There are dents in the rear left quarter panel and one of the front fenders. There are also dents in the right-side rocker panel. Other than that, the body is good and straight. The glass is free of cracks and in good shape. I will include some trim and lenses for the rear taillights, which are a one-year design and very hard to find parts for. I've described the car as honestly as I can, but if you have any questions, feel free to ask. |
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Is your new-car warranty good at the race track?
Mon, Feb 27 2017We've all heard the horror stories. Your buddy knows a girl that was dating a guy whose best friend's brother once broke his brand-new, recently purchased performance car while making runs at a drag strip or laps at a track day, and the manufacturer wouldn't cover the repair under warranty. True story? Urban legend? Complete crap? Yes, no, maybe. One thing's for sure: Automotive warranties have always come with caveats. In 1908, an ad in the Trenton Evening Times clearly stated: "All Ford Cars Guaranteed for One Year." Although it changed over time, by 1925 the Ford New Car Guarantee only covered 90 days on material and 30 days on labor, and it clearly stated that that there was "No guarantee whatever on Fan Belts, Glass, Bulbs, Wiring, Transmission, Bands, Hose Connections, Commutator Shells, Rollers, Spark Plugs or Gaskets." Whether or not Ol' Henry would pay to fix your Model T if you broke it shaving a tenth off your lap time at the local board track seems to be lost to history. We're guessing no. But what about today? Do new-car warranties in 2017 cover cars when they are driven on race tracks? We researched the warranties of 14 auto brands to find out, and the answer is yes, no, maybe, depending on the brand, in some cases the model, and whether or not your car is modified from stock. Acura has been out of the high-performance car game for a number of years, but jumps back into the party in 2017 with its hybrid-powered $173,000 NSX supercar. And Acura's warranty, as well as Honda's, clearly states that it does not cover "the use of the vehicle in competition or racing events." View 33 Photos So we asked Sage Marie, Senior Manager of Public Relations for Honda and Acura. "If the car is stock, the warranty covers it on a track just as it does on the street. No question," he told us. "However, if the car is modified, say with slick tires or other components that would put higher stresses on the vehicle's parts and systems, then we would have to investigate the circumstances further." Marie went on to say the same would be true for any Acura model or Honda vehicle, including the new 2017 Honda Civic Si. This became a common theme. Chevrolet actually started this practice with the fifth-generation Camaro on the high-performance ZL1 and Z/28 models.
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