1955 Chevrolet Truck Base 3.8l on 2040-cars
Eden, Vermont, United States
1955 second series 1 1/2 ton with 12 volt system. A fairly rare short 130 inch wheelbase model which is less than a regular cab F150 with 8 ft box. Overall it's only a foot longer than my Volvo 240. 235 cu in 6, 4 speed manual and single speed rear end I bought it in 1980 from the original owner, a grain farmer near Calgary , Alberta. The Canadian model is a 1500, which I believe would have been a 4100 in the US. The GVW is 11000 lbs with the original tires, 6.50-20 front and 7.00-20 rear. It now has 7.50-20 all around. I drove it back the 3000 miles to Vermont and it got 14 mpg and used 7 quarts of oil. I've done about 12000 miles in the 34 years I've had it, and within the last 4000 I've done the following ; The 235 motor was tired and I replaced it with a reman unit. It's just broke in and runs smooth and strong. Compression is between 130 and 140 in all cylinders. It's never had ethanol in it. A complete brake overhaul, including E brake band. New water pump, king pins and steering ends. Front wheel bearings were repacked and 2 replaced. All fluids were changed, except for the hydraulics. New exhaust with 304 stainless pipe and a titanium muffler which I fabricated. It will never need replacing I installed the battery backwards in a rush a couple of years ago which was a bad idea. It got a new generator, regulator, and most of the wiring connecting them. The starter was also rebuilt with a new drive at the same time. The mirrors were rebuilt with new glass and titanium arms. Seat rebuilt with new covers and new floor mat. All sheet metal that I could remove, inner and outer fenders, grill, hood and doors were removed, blasted, epoxy primed, top coated and reassembled with new seals and stainless fasteners. The fenders were undercoated and the floor was scraped clean, primed and undercoated. The cab roof and back have the original paint. The truck as I bought it had very little rust. The floor is 100%. The rear cab corners rotted at the edges where chaff had accumulated, and mice had gotten up in between the roof and the inner metal. From the stash of grain I found I'd say they were there before I bought it. I've cleaned it out but the mess they left has caused some pitting inside the cab. It wouldn't take much to finish the paint. I've rebuilt the carb and probably other things I can't remember. None of the work was ever done with the idea of selling it. The bed is 9 ft. long and 7 wide. It is all wood and solid except for the sideboards which are original and have some dry rot. There was 1/2 in plywood over the 2x6 planks when I bought it and I've overlaid it all with 14 ga. steel welded to the steel side rails. The dual cylinder hoist is very strong and reliable. I had it way overloaded the first time I went for gravel and it didn't flinch. I've never added oil since I've had it. I began to build aluminum sides and tailgate, but only completed the tailgate. I have the material for the sides cut and bent but they need welding. It's all 1/8" 6061 T6 aluminum which is very good stuff, and goes with the truck. The tires have almost full tread all around but some have weather checking. Two of the rears are almost new retreads. I also have 4 good extra tires, 2 are 7.00 and 2 are 7.50 . I don't believe they're checked but they're buried in my shop out of the light and I'd have to look. The rims are 3 piece with a locking ring. The front were blasted and repainted and the rears have not but they have most of the original paint on them. There is a pair of dual chains in a box mounted to the bed. Other things I've added over the years are a very heavy duty trailer hitch, a 15 gallon aux fuel tank outside the cab and a tool box mounted on the frame. The tank behind the seat was drawing rust so I haven't used it for a while. It doesn't leak, just needs flushing, and it's the tank that feeds the fuel gauge. Everything works on the truck, lights ,heater etc. and it was inspected regularly until I stopped using it a few years ago. It's always been garaged and run and serviced annually. It's had a tune up this summer and fresh oil. Mechanically it's almost 100% and I wouldn't hesitate to get in it today and drive anywhere. The only issue might be that the vacuum wipers are weak, but then they probably always were. I think an electric upgrade might be a good idea. The truck is a joy to drive. It steers easily and runs straight down the road. The gentleman I bought it from had given up farming and was sad to see it go, and now I find myself in the same situation. The truck may look old fashioned but it's as willing and able to do a days work as it ever was. Hopefully it will find a home where it can be useful. |
Chevrolet Other Pickups for Sale
- 1957 custom chevrolet chop top pickup
- 2005 chevy ssr truck(US $28,000.00)
- 1957 chevy pick up(US $22,500.00)
- 1951 chevrolet truck 3100 patina 1948,1949,1950,1951,1952,1953(US $8,500.00)
- 2002 cherolet c3500 stake truck(US $3,500.00)
- 1959 chevy 3200 apache fleetside pickup(US $9,750.00)
Auto Services in Vermont
Sumner Tire ★★★★★
Shearer Acura ★★★★★
J & L Service Center ★★★★★
Green Mountain Car Care ★★★★★
Arrow Express Lube & Autocare ★★★★★
Adirondack Auto Svce Inc ★★★★★
Auto blog
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Best cars for snow and ice in 2023 and 2024
Tue, Jan 23 2024What's the best car for snow? The real answer is "the one with winter tires." What do we mean by that? You could have the finest, most advanced all-wheel-drive system or four-wheel drive in the world, but if you're running all-seasons (the spork of tires), your fancy four-wheeler won't matter much. The odds are, any vehicle on the road running good winter tires will probably perform adequately in slippery, slushy and/or snowy road conditions. (Here's a more complete explanation of why winter tires are totally worth it). In other words, you don't really need any of the cars on this list. With a set of winter tires, countless others will do the job, and even these will be at their best with proper rubber. You can find a variety of winter tires for your car here at Tire Rack. Keep in mind that you will need a full set of four snow tires for safety and performance, no matter what you're driving. The days of your dad putting just two snows on the family truckster to get it moving in a straight line are long gone. Don't get us wrong, getting a car that performs well in snow and ice is still a worthy criteria for car buyers. According to the U.S. Transportation Department, 70% of Americans live in places that get snow and ice. And much of the country has been blasted with arctic air for much of the new year. So let's look at the cars. First, we're highlighting choices for a variety of buyers and price points. Second, we're not just considering snow; we're considering general wintery conditions people will experience driving to work or school. As such, these are all choices with advanced all-wheel-drive systems, usually with "torque-vectoring" systems that not only automatically shunt power front and back, but side to side between the rear axles. Most have extra ground clearance for getting through deep snow, and we prefer those vehicles with more responsive steering, throttles and transmissions that provide a greater sense of vehicle control in slippery conditions. Acura RDX Read our Acura RDX Review Acura's Super-Handling All-Wheel Drive system was one of the first to offer torque-vectoring, and besides often being touted for its ability to greatly enhanced dry-road handling, its benefits in the slick stuff can be profound. It's actually surprising that Acura hasn't leaned into this capability further by offering more rugged versions of its vehicles.