1970 Chevelle Ss L-78 on 2040-cars
Saint Paul, Minnesota, United States
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This little marketing exercise is to sell a 1970 Chevelle SS396 with the L78 option. Sadly, I am one of the pre-eminent experts on the L78 variant which would suggest I need to get a life. In this case I will use the funds to start a patented fire escape company. Have owned the car since September of 2003. It was delivered with 29413 miles on the odometer; it now has 32368 which represent about 300 miles per year. I will try and not use adjectives like awesome, born, flawless, and incredible since it as the end of the day a car, but also in this case, an investment. There are a few thousand LS6 cars out there for sale on any given day. I suspect a few more then actually built aka: 67 Tri Carb Vettes and 69 Z-28’s. Even the $100K cars have flaws, for example the radio ground is never on any of them. My 1394 positives selling rusty Chevelle and Corvette parts to other lunatic/correctophile nut jobs like myself has proven to be an difficult task. There is no pleasing this crowd. (Note the questions I am going to get regarding the always car show arguments of how Kansas City made Chevelles versus Atlanta. Please note that if you challenge some of my assertions please include the page of the assembly manual, a picture of you standing in front of your L78 or LS6 and a recent copy of USA today showing proof of life and ownership of your car while holding the build sheet. Take notes kids: Have original build sheet (not pictured) it is old and yellow but I took the picture. The block is CE and the heads set for unleaded gas. In every way I tried my damndest to adhere to the very dog eared assembly manual. I scored the junk yards in five states to get OEM parts whenever possible. So, the fan, coil, alternator, oil cap, radiator cap, clips etc. are OEM. I am too stooped to rig stuff regardless. I rebuilt the carb, alternator, smog system (pictured, but not installed, too costly), Added an NOS AM Radio. Changed all fluids, drained the tank well, and blew all the lines Car has had console, buckets added by the previous owners. I can tell you of a few junk yards in Minnesota and North Dakota where you can get a snazzy bench seat. The paint is over 15 years old, as is the bright work. There is NO-END to what a person can spend on paint. If you plan to drive it then keep this in mind. It will go down the road just swell with it’s current paint. The car is a high end driver, you cannot eat off the chassis as it is factory rustproofed and my aforementioned no life did not include this removal process for a driver. I have never been to a car show where the couple with the lawn chairs that match the paint on the car were dining off the floor pan. These under litium control types always have that “Look but Don’t Touch” sign on their life defining Chevelle. It on the other hand, under the hood is a tour de force’ in technical correctness. Non-correct, if you’re keeping score: The Brake booster is a repop with Delco Moraine on it, but it should be upside down on the passenger side. The radiator is a four rows but not OEM. The water pump has a 1970 code date. The radiator cap in the picture (opps) is the stainless RC15 replacement. I have the correct galvanized cap (OEM). The fenders have been replaced at some point. The height of the SS emblems appears to be 2.1334 inches to high. The alternator bolt is wrong but it has been corrected, I woke up screaming after I had time to reflect on this gross and obvious transgression. The battery is modern with a Delco cover, the corrent spring battery cables are new. I will give a free under hood radio ground to the first emailed who sends the page in the assembly manual. Note the even the $75K and up cars for sale lack this glaring example of correctness. When I sit in front of the computer late at night I scan the pictures of competitors for this and other serious flaws life changing flaw. The driver’s side smog tube is wrong. This picture was taken a few years ago, since then I have replaced it with the correct tube. Since the 2003 purchase, all the wiring harnesses have been replaced, tires, brakes, gas tank, exhaust system, carpet, headliner, brake lines, fuel lines, alternator, fan, fuel pump, horn relay, voltage regulator, dash, radio, speakers and anything else that could catch fire or contribute to one. I am a bleeder and a coward. I have about $8K in receipts for some of these baubles. Some things to check on the competition L car auctions: The oil cap should be chrome with a small SE stamp on it. The dip stick should have a small yellow tip and natural steel. The radiator cap needs to be galvanized with a strong script on the cap. The top cover should have a reinforcement tap on the driver side. The 4 speed knob on the L cars hould be silver (there is a nice diagram on the console if you get confused). The smog tubes have 2 brackets to support the vacuum and fuel lines. The distributor cap should have Patent Pending and a small R to note resistor plugs, but no Patent Number. The patent was issued in 1957 and ran for 17 years. You can buy these caps for a few hundred. See? There is no end to it. I am starting a business and need the funds. I do not need a trade nor will I entertain the concept of a 1970 Duster with a blower motor etc, or whatever POS style car your wife wants you to get rid of... or else the Female Fun Limitation Factor will kick in, and you know what that means. In the long standing tradition of Barrett Jackson I WILL NOT GIVE OUT THE RESERVE! I WILL NOT GIVE OUT THE RESERVE! I WILL NOT GIVE OUT THE RESERVE! Also, if your boss got you sleeping at the dealership do not call me for a price either. Have at least 10 ebays bids and the same spotless record I enjoy before you low ball me. Feel free to ask questions, cars is in Vadnais Heights Minnesota. I will answer and publish any serious questions and publish the stooped ones where I get to slice and dice the people stuck with 1971/72 low compression cars. Good luck. Uncle Johnny (jjj315)
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