Before explaining the pros I'll explain the cons;

Initially when I bought the truck, there was a pinhole oil leak in the Oil Pan, which I sealed with JB Weld after clearing the rot. Has not leaked a drop since. I have a new Oil Pan and Valve covers which are Ford Blue, in the event I was to pull the Motor I was going to paint the Block Ford Blue to match.

When I originally bought this Bronco. The ABS Light was on, it had 15 ABS codes but a few were redundant, (I don't recall and wasn't concerned with it),  the ABS Light stopped coming on years ago, but also doesn't illuminate, with Key On Engine Off. Maybe the bulb blew? To date this has not been an issues for me to get inspected.

 - The E4OD lost 4th gear about 2 years ago. It started slipping out of 4th under a load, then under light throttle and then stopped all together. To drive, you must first press the O/D Button on the Column Shifter. From what I've read online, the Sprag may have let go and turning off the O/D engages a Band which allows the trans to go?? Not sure. 

It has been 2 years since 4th let go and it's still been my daily. Shifts decent. I did change the fluid when it first happened. I didn't see anything shocking in the Trans Pan, and I did install a new Solenoid Pack hoping that might correct the issue but it did not. I'm no tranny guy, I considered a rebuild something I might try to attempt but I have 66 Charger that I'm working on and would rather put the time and money into that, as much as I do like this truck. I'm also not a die hard ford guy and I would like to see it go to someone who will love it.

 - Included with the Truck will be, new Mercon ATF. A new E4OD Rebuild Kit which had cost me about $1000 from Oregon Performance. I also have the updated Pump. New Planets and an E4OD Repair Book. 

NOTE: The Planetary Gear Sets that I have are the beefier ones with the extra Planets, I had read that they'll interchange. Keep in mind I'm not an expert on the matter. The Rebuild Kit also has HD Sprags with more rollers, HD Clutches and Bands

 - Additionally, you'll notice the Truck has some rot through, shown in the pictures. There is some blistering but the Passenger Side Front Fender has rot through, and so does the Driver Side Door Jamb.

Despite the Transmission issue, the truck has been as far down a CT and as far up as Maine, with no issues. It has never left me stranded. In 2021, I rebuilt the entire suspension and I have pictures of what it used to look like when it was fresh.

The Plastic on the interior is NOT perfect. There are imperfection throughout but overall looks great, no major cracks anywhere visible. May be brittle in some spots, soft in other, overall decent for the age in my opinion.

NOTE: The AC does not operate and most all the components were gone when I bought the truck - I have no parts for this.

Previous Owner put a JL Sub in the back and an AMP under the Driver Seat - still there and working. An Alpine Radio was present but I replaced it with another Alpine Radio with RGB Selection so I could match the Green to the rest of the Instruments. Sounds great (at least to me) and can get LOUD.

When I first bought the truck; I installed a Wiper Motor and Driver Side + Passenger Side Window Motors. I later replaced the Blower Motor Resistor Assembly which brought back the slow speeds of the Blower Fan. The Water Pump and Thermostat was done about 5 years ago at Ford. And lastly I replaced the Distributor because of a failed PIP Sensor causing no spark.

- I installed new Rear Axle Bearings with new Eaton Posi Track Limited Slip Differential,

- new rear Differential Cover

- Installed new Rear ABS Sensor - reads the Tone Ring in the differential, also communicates your Speed to the Trans and Speedo.

- Installed new Espo Leaf Springs and Hardware. 

- Installed new Radius Arms and Bushings while Rebuilding the Front TTB using a new Danna Limited Slip Differential. 

- Removed the Front Axles and installed new Dana U-Joints. 

- Removed the original Drive Shafts, painted and replaced Bearing and all U Joints.  

- Removed the (cracked) riveted Front Shock Towers and installed new ATS Shock Towers with new Espo Coils. 

- (New Grade 8 Hardware Everywhere applicable)

- Bilstein Shocks all around (Total 6)

- Painted the original Front Sway Bar using new Bushings and End Links, 

- Painted the original Rear Sway Bar using new Bushings and End Links,

- New Bump Stops all the way around.

- New Upper and Lower Ball Joints,

- New oversized Ambulance Steering Linkage, 

- New Rear Drums and Brakes + Hardware,

- New Front Rotors and Brakes + Hardware

- The Front Rotors have all new Wheel Bearings with High Temp Bearing Grease.

- New Calipers

- New Warn Premium Manual Locking Hub (converted from auto hubs)

- New Front Speed Sensors.

- All new Rubber Flex Brake Lines

- New Front Rotor Dust Shields.

- New "Coffee Can" Vacuum Pod

- New Heater Core

- LED Dash Lights

- Working Overhead Console.

- LED Dome Lights

- LED Headlights Bulbs,

- Electronic Flasher Relay - to prevent hyper flash

- Regular Tail Light Bulbs

- All the gauges work

- New Window Felt Seals

- New Powermaster Starter

- New S&B Air Filter

- New Belt Tensioner

- New Clock Spring (for Driver Side Air Bag which fixed the Air Bag code it developed at the time)

- Custom under hood LED light strip

All receipts included.

It has the 5.0L engine, I just installed new Mishimoto Radiator Hoses, Heater Hoses and Bypass Hose before I gave it a Coolant Flush with a tune up last month in June '24, (Plugs, Wires, Coil, Cap, Rotor) Plus a new HD Belt and replacement AC Delete Pulley put on at the same time to get it ready to sell. 

- New Oil Cap

- New Coolant Cap

- New Gas Cap

- (All the gaskets in the old caps were cracked, and the graphics printed on them were wearing off too.)

The engine has around 220k miles on it but still runs smooth. I never see any fluids on the ground from neither the Engine, Trans, T-Case, or Diffs, though I have accumulated spare Gaskets and spare engine components because a couple years back I had planned on pulling the engine and overhauling everything while it was out. I'll give you ALL MY STOCK for this truck, providing you want it.

It has a soft top from Softtopper.com installed. It doesn't leak. The soft top is excellent and is a breeze to removed ALONE when you don't have a buddy to help remove the hard top. Also it stows away in the back so if you get caught in rain you can just reinstall it - very easy. I did paint the inside of it "Prairie Tan" to match the interior color. Originally it was Gray and looked out of place to me. The Tan fabric dye isn't perfect but at the time I preferred it over the gray.

If You have the room and want the Hard Top, you can have it, If you need to come back I can hang onto it for 2 weeks after the sale, or I will sell separately. 

In the winter, heat never blows super hot but on a long ride it does take the chill out of the cabin.

If you have any questions let me know. I'll do my best to answer them.

I believe the front to be a Dana 44

The rear is a Ford 8.8

The truck also has cruise, worked great last time i used it.