This truck has been one of my favorite projects over the past 8 years.  As you read through the list here, know that this wasn’t some rushed hack job from an 18 year old kid who wanted to throw wide wheels on it, roll coal, and call it a day.  This work was done by a Systems Engineer in their 30s that takes immense pride in their work.  I don’t accept when something doesn’t work.  I fix it.  Look at the price of these components and you will know no expense was spared.  I bought the best parts available. 

First show I ever brought the truck to when it was all finished (Spring '24) it won first place for trucks!  Never thought I would sell it, but the family comes first always, so here we are.

THIS WAS NOT DRIVEN IN THE SALT.  Once the first snow would hit each year, the truck would be parked, plugged in, put on a trickle charger, and started once a week to bring up to temp and get everything moving.  This was made to be a show truck and that is how I treated it.

Also, every oil leak on the notorious 12v Cummins has been fixed.  This truck doesn’t leave a drop of oil on the driveway.

***Video can only be watched on the mobile app for some reason.  The second half of the video shows a quick drive of the truck so you can hear it.  Microphone was under the hood so the turbos sound a lot louder than they are from the cab.  

 

Engine (12V Cummins Diesel):

·         Power Driven Diesel 12v Head

o   CNC Ported

o   O-ringed

o   60lb valve springs

o   Upgraded rocker pedestals and pushrods

·         ARP head studs

·         P7100 (P-Pump)

o   Upgraded billet delivery valve holders

o   025 delivery valves

o   3k governor spring kit

o   Power Driven Diesel AFC Live In-Cab Tuner

·         5x.016 VCO injectors

·         Compound turbo system

o   Borg Warner 362SXE Secondary

§ Added DPS Turbonator (turns into a VGT vaned turbo for better spool up at low rpm)

§ T51R modded housing for better sound

§ Turbo blanket

§ Powder coated cold side

o   Borg Warner 472SXE

§ Turbo blanket

§ Powder coated cold side

o   Crazy carl’s piping (all power coated)

o   Upgraded stainless oil feed and drain lines (all silicone tubing eliminated)

o   Power Driven Diesel Boots and clamps.  If you watch their videos, you’ll see how good these are. They will never come off under boost

·         Billet tappet cover (powder coated)

·         Grid heater delete block (powder coated)

o   Will include stock grid heater block and both wiring leads are still there wrapped up. 

·         Mishimoto intercooler

o   Front is polished for better appearance through grille.  

·         Converted to electric fuel pump.  Went with Airdog.

·         Also converted the tank from siphon feed to a sump.  Much more reliable. The sump is from Bean Machine.

·         Power driven diesel 5” x 12” premium air filter

·         2 breather valve cover upgrades (powder coated).  These take the place of 4 valve covers and eliminate the breather from the tappet cover.  They run to a catch can, and a tube is routed to the end of the exhaust to burn off any vapors from the crankcase.  I have the 4 stock valve covers I’ll include for if you ever want to switch back (not sure why you would…)

·         Brand new (less than a couple months old) Optima red top batteries.  1 has been relocated to the toolbox in the bed with breakers at both ends in case of a fault.  This was in an effort to move the bottom large turbo up and over to the side to display it.  Never got around to it. 

·         All wiring is 2/0 copper OFC welding cable. Bus bars are located on passenger side to distribute power and charge to front/rear of truck.

·         New starter this year

·         Radiator and coolant changed last year

·         Engine oil has always been Valvoline 15W-40 with 1 bottle of ZDDPPlus zinc additive.  Engine has a lot of money in it, makes sense to protect it with extra zinc

·         4” from the primary turbo back, including the downpipe.  I believe the exhaust tip is 6".

·         KDP fix kit installed

Drivetrain:

·         5 speed NV4500 swapped.  Has a short shifter kit installed.

·         Went through 2 automatic transmissions. Got frustrated and swapped in a built manual and have not had an issue since. The auto wiring, ECU, and stalk is still there if you ever desire to swap back to auto.

·         New carrier assembly last year

·         New rear drums and shoes done earlier this year.

·         Stainless braided hoses up front.  All brake lines under the hood and to the rear have all been swapped to stainless steel. 

Body / Exterior:

·         Everything painted in a spray booth.  This is a pearlescent blue color and it really pops in the sun, get love all the time when people see it.  I sprayed 4 coats of clear so there is a ton of protection.  All orange peel eliminated.  This paint looks like glass.

·         New bedsides welded on and painted this year

o   During this project, the rear frame was wire wheeled, rust mort chemical stripped, epoxy primer coated, and then Raptor lined.  Same procedure followed on underside and interior sides of bed.  Front of frame was not done as it is in good shape (previous owner let oil leaks cover it for protection I guess).

o   Bed and tailgate plastic liners, not that spray in crap

·         New outer rocker panels

o   Inside rocker panels were pretty toast.  I cut them out, sealed them off, and made the outers structural.

o   New OEM door sill covers protect the surface

·         New cab corners             

o   Didn’t weld these.  These were panel bonded, riveted, sealed, and Raptored underneath to avoid there ever being another rust issue again. 

·         All new southern doors. 

o   Had all the doors sourced from down south.  Paid a pretty penny.  They were stripped to bare metal and epoxy primed and sealed anyway to be sure.

·         4^th gen front bumper swap

·         Front grille swapped to sport grille to eliminate gap with 4^th gen bumper

o   Pad added to hood release mechanism, and I had to cut and reweld the frame of the hood release further back.  The hood release was pushing into the condenser, and I lost all my Freon when it finally broke through.  Not an issue anymore, was just an expensive lesson…

·         Rear bumper changed to roll pan. Has hole to access a tow hitch if you plan on towing with it

·         Paint matched brand new rear taillights

·         Paint matched front headlights.

o   These are totally custom. I was keeping up with the blue/copper theme. 

o   Morimoto H1 mini projectors and color matched housings

o   Cummins logos on sides to break up some of the blue.  Between these and the housings being copper I think they look good.  If you don’t like them, they’re easy enough to change. 

o   Morimoto profile prism halos.  The rectangle ones are switchbacks so they blink amber with the turn signal bulbs.

·         Tinted cab lights

·         Hood has 2 small hail dents near top I missed when painting.  Not very noticeable but wanted to mention them.

·         I have Bushwacker bed rail and tailgate caps for it.  I put them on and didn’t really like the look, so I took them off, but I’ll include them in case you want to put them back on. 

Wheels:

·         20x10 Vision Bomb wheels and Atturo 33” tires on all 4 corners. 

o   Tires are so new they still have the factory blue/red paint stripes in the tread!  Like I said, barely drive this truck…

o   All 36 splined lug nuts

·         Will include the 4x OEM 16” Dodge wheels, all center cap covers, and the spare wheel/tire.  Tires still have tread but some wear on them. 

o   Will include the 36 OEM pass-through acorn style lug nuts

Interior:

·         Whole interior was stripped and any rust spots were addressed.  The entire cab, including the back wall and roof were lined with sound deadener.

·         All alpine speakers front and rear

·         Skar ZVX-12V2 subwoofer in custom box. 

o   The top of the box is all resin encased real shell casings with stranded led lights throughout

o   Rest of the box is clear epoxy coated 3/4 ” plywood.

o   Epoxy has cracked in a bunch of places.  Sub still works and sounds good, but you may want to just toss the box if you don’t like the look.  Been building boxes for years and wanted to try something new.  I don’t think epoxy handles the heat cycles and vibrations well enough to be a lasting coating on a box.  Lesson learned there.

o   Hifonics amp bolted to back wall

·         Starlight headliner

o   Another first that I wanted to try.  I like the look of it at night and you can dim it and change the colors or how much it twinkles.  Runs to a switchbox at the front under your right side that controls the headlight halos and the headliner. Has 2 open spots for whatever else you’d like.  

·         Pioneer double din head unit / radio

·         Weighted shift knob

·         I still have the rear bench seat. It will be included

·         New dash fascia panel painted satin black.  Fits the larger radio much better

·         Carpeted top dash cover

o   This is merely to prevent the dash from cracking.  It is not cracked currently, and I wanted to keep it that way!

Gauges:

·         Combo boost/exhaust pressure digital gauge on dash

·         On pillar, there are exhaust gas temp, fuel pressure, and boost (not hooked up because of other boost gauge) gauges

·         Trans temp gauge over steering column

·         All gauges are Glowshift tinted series

Steering:

·         PSC Big Bore Steering Gear Box

o   This box uses the new 6 bolt design all the new Rams use, but still bolts up to the existing 2^nd gen steering input/output.  Less turns lock to lock too, very nice.

o   New pitman arm for it

o   New drag link had to be shortened to fit.

o   I tried every brand of steering box you could think of.  NAPA, Cardone, Redhead, and none of them could hold a candle to this PSC box.

·         6 month old intermediate steering shaft

·         Custom adjustable control arms

o   These were made with thick DOM tubing and Johnny Joints.  The best you can possibly buy.  They’re huge.

o   These allow you to push the axle to where you want, and increase caster past the anemic factory spec.  Helps the wheel re-center after a turn.

o   Caster eliminator plates added.  All adjustments are made on the arms now.

o   Powder coated

·      3^rd Gen T-Style steering conversion.  All Y-Style parts were thrown in the trash where they belong.  Tie rods all Napa NCP line lifetime parts

·      Thuren adjustable track bar.  Best in the business. Still has sticker on it with torque specs

·      Had to shorten the top tie rod that goes to the drag link due to the huge new steering box.  Welded a DOM tube collar over the cut to ensure it is strong.

·      BDS dual-steering stabilizer

o   2 brand new Bilstein steering dampers

·         EMF ball joints

o   ALL ball joints from everyone else were way too tight and made the knuckle stiff.  These are fully adjustable and lifetime warrantied and finally got the knuckles to swivel like they should.  You can also rebuild them in the knuckle so you don’t have to press the housings out.  Worth the $700.

·         All new axle U-joints done last year

·         Rear track bars added that stretch from just under the cab to the rear axle.

o   Welded mounts, not bolted

o   Heim joints on ends

o   Added vinyl coated SS safety straps on all 4 ends. The engineer in me always said “what if these fell off” and I’d rather not find out.  If the hardware or the mounts ever fail, the straps will catch them as they are fastened to the frame.

Suspension:

·   4 brand new Bilstein 5100 Shocks added this year

·   Thuren soft ride leveling coils

o   Lifted the front just shy of 3” to get the truck perfectly level.  This was badly needed since the new leaf springs in the rear really raked the stance of the truck.  Also definitely helped the ride quality.

o   Powder coated

·         Brand new rear leaf springs and all new shackles and bump stops. 

Miscellaneous:

·         Rain guards on the windows

·         Some paint chips on the front fenders where the wheels hit before the leveling kit was put on. 

·         If you would like the steering even tighter, you can tighten the steering box even more using the adjustment at the top.  The whole steering setup has less than 500 miles on it and needs to be broken in before another alignment.  

·         Has cord for block heater routed to passenger side front bumper where it’s stored.  Easy to plug in.  Block heater was also changed last winter.

·         4WD works.  No vacuum leaks.

·         All ranges on the transfer case work.  Fluid just changed about 5K ago.

·         Fluid in trans has maybe 5K on it.  I used Amsoil’s MTG.  Stuck a huge magnet on the cover too to ensure any debris is caught.  Weird they didn’t put one in from factory.

·         No more emissions!  Truck never had a catalytic converter on it from the factory, but they made me put one on to pass.  I took it back off after, but I still have it and can include the pipe with the cat on it if you ever want to put one on. 

·         When you rest the oil cap on the filler, it does not move with the engine running.  A cheesy blow-by test, but it shows the rotating assembly is still good.  When the head was off we inspected everything anyway.

·         Brand new condenser but needs Freon.  Never got around to it after the hood latch issue but wanted to ensure it wouldn’t get poked again. If you want to delete the condenser so you can just see the big intercooler (I took it to shows this way) no Freon will come out at you at this time. 

·         Can provide all paint codes for exterior and powder coated parts upon request after purchase.  Have to protect this secret sauce... 

·         Comes with 2 keys and title

 

      Offers are welcome!  Worst I can say is no.  Thank you for reading all the way through here and if you have any questions at all feel free to ask.