1976 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am Coupe 2-door 6.6l on 2040-cars
Coeur d'Alene, Idaho, United States
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Motor: This car has been in my care for the last 10 years and has been an on again off again project up until last Summer when the car finally came together. This car was originally Goldenrod Yellow with a 400 4 speed and no other options. The original enigine was rebuilt, bored and stroked and was set up with #69 heads (72 cc), Ram air 3 cam, Edelbrock performer intake with a factory Rochestor 4 bbl carb with electic choke. The clutch, starter, battery & cables, alternator, radiator, belts and hoses were all replaced. When the engine was out the engine bay was detailed as well as the under side of the car. This car runs on regular low octane unleaded and was patterned after a 1970 400 Ram Air. The actual engine dislacement is larger though and mileage was 19,000 when I got the car so I assumed 119,000? Interior: New carpet and headliner. Door panels, console and dash are in great original condition. The windshield was pulled to fix some sun discoloration to the dash and was re dyed. The engine turned aluminum panel was restored and made into a Bandit style in gold to match the interior. I also replaced the steering column with a tilt wheel. The front seats were not restored nor the lower kick panels. I intended to add 4th gen Firebird seats but never got to it. The original AM FM is in place but is not hooked up, nor are there any speakers. The plan was to put a modern stereo in the console map pocket section and leave the original in just for looks. (The console was missing when I got this car but found an original 4 speed console and installed, but had a cutout for power window switch). This car has manual windows. Brakes/Suspension/Exhaust: The front brakes, calipers, rotors and caliper hoses were replaced as well as rear brake shoes and rear parking brake cables. The front sway bar was pulled, painted and reinstalled with poly bushings. There are also new body mounts, KYB Gas Adjust shocks on all 4 corners, welded in subframe connectors and a new Pypes stainless exhaust system 2.5" from the mandrel bent downpipes to the X pipe crossover to the single rear transverse muffler through the "Hockey stick" tips out back. Nothing under this car is hanging down to get caught on a speedbump! The Exhaust manifolds are the cleaner 1970 style and were blasted and ceramic coated inside and out. Rear end was serviced and works perfectly. I intended to replace front springs with lowering springs but never got there. The rear leaf springs and axle were not painted but a chrome cover was added to the differential. Front end is tight and detailed and the reverse lockout backdrive linkage was hooked up properly so this must go in reverse before you can remove key. Neutral safety switch was also hooked up. Body: This car was stripped down and found to be rust free. No patchwork anywhere! It was when the body was coming apart I got the idea to change the front end to a 1972 model. The front nose, lower (metal) valance, center spoiler and hood pull latch were all changed over. I do NOT have the original 76 front end. The body and paint is a mirror finish in a base coat clear coat application, which was baked in an oven at a local dealership. The paint was changed to 1970 Polar white and fitted with early Trans Am blue decals from Phoenix Graphics. The front nose could be a bit smoother for a perfectionist. The door, cowl, roof, shaker scoop and trunk weatherstripping is all new. The Honeycomb wheels were repainted with the original Honeycomb paint (as well as brake drums in matching paint) and new tires were added. Summary: This car fires right up, idles perfectly, sounds fantastic and runs great. I took this to a local car show and turned plenty of heads! I have put about 250 miles on this car since the engine was fired up for the first time. It drives straight, no rattles or shakes and feels brand new. These are some things that need attention: The Borg Warner is leaking from the Imput and output seals, shift shaft seal and the clutch could be adjusted. I have a seal kit for the tranny. The back up lights are non opperational (I have a new switch to install), interior parking brake light switch needs replaced. (parking brake works perfectly but light on dash wont come on), the front parking lights and side marker lights don't work properly when the healights are on. Possible bad turn signal switch. This car was intended to be a nice driver but has become a bit more. Terms: Your bid is a contractual commitment to buy. Don't bid if your need your wifes permission or if you don't know what it costs to ship a car. Figure that out first because those are excuses that are unexceptible. If you want to know what shipping costs call Ultimate Auto Ship at 954-796-2023 and Patrick Lynch will give you one. I won't disclose the reserve or end the auction early either. This car has about 250 miles on a rebuilt drivetrain and still has the break in additives in it. Don't ask me questions like if it "will make it to New Hamster" or something like that. I kinda like to drive a car until it proves itself to me. I have another car project with an engine rebuild going on that car and and home that needs work so I'm considering selling this, but I don't really want too. High bidder pays 500 NON REFUNDIBLE deposit withing 24 hours of auction end and cash is king. The balance due within 10 days. |
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Auto blog
GM recalling another 2.7 million vehicles in five separate campaigns
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Want to buy a worst-in-show-winning Faux Ferrari Fiero?
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