1997 Plymouth Voyager 3.0l V-6 With 34,500 Miles! on 2040-cars

I regretfully have to sell my  screamin' mini. I bought it here on the 'Bay 2 years ago and have loved it. It came from Merck Pharmaceuticals where it was used as a shuttle on their Corporate campus to move people between buildings. I bought it with 17K verified miles.  It has been amazingly reliable.  The only reason for the sale is that my business has grown and I need more room, so I found a 2001 long-wheelbase Town & Country with 33K miles on it ( for a lot more $ than this one! ).  So, I'm going to give you the good and the not-so-good and let you decide what you want. Personally, I love older, low-mile cars. The price is right and I can drive them for years and pocket the $.  I can not understand why people would rather have a loaded up, newer used car with 100,000 or more miles for the same money. All you do is throw money at it. Belts, hoses, timing belts, tires, brakes, transmission repairs, O2 sensors and the list goes on. My neighbor bought one like this..looks great. 120K miles on it and they spend $300 a month in repairing it and it spends 3 or 4 days a month at the garage. Always a drama. Why go through that? Buy a simple car with low mileage and drive it and forget about it, save your $ and use it for something better.  (The Plymouth Voyager and Dodge Caravan are identical vehicles)..

So..back to my van...

The Good:

LOW, documented, verified miles. 34,500. Crazy low. Don't want to break your bubble, but there are no 'good' miles. Parts have a finite life, and the more miles on that part the closer it is to wearing out.  The 75,000 Mile timing belt comes to mind. That's a $800 service job on a typical 4cyl car. Doesn't matter how you got to 75,000 miles..it needs to be done. Seals leak, sensors go bad, hoses harden, belts stretch and wear, and it's the $50 here, $100 there that will nickel and dime you to death. Low miles are ALWAYS better.  BTW...this is a V6 with a timing chain, no belt to replace, ever . The engine was recently serviced with new plugs, wires, cap / rotor, oil+filter, all fluids, emissions check (passes every time by a huge margin.) injectors cleaned per factory recommendation. Acc belts replaced.   

Awesome Mitsubishi 3.0L V-6 engine built for Chrysler and Mitsu. The same engine was used in higher-end Chrysler cars and in the Mitsu Montero, the twin-turbo Dodge Stealth. They last forever, and if you don't get 200,000 out of it, then you abused it. They are smooth, torquey, idle great and are better on gas that the Chrysler V-6 engines ever were. This has ZERO issues, sailed through NJ inspection, makes no noises, doesn't leak, gets 22-23 MPG around town and 25 on the Highway all day long. I added a true ram-air intake that grabs air under the nose and forces it into the intake, just like the 60's and 70's muscle cars did and a lot of the new performance cars do. There is a little intake noise because you can hear the air going into the intake, but this added a solid 2 MPG  and also has a lifetime cloth air filter in it.  This is not some flex-hose POS ricer kit. It uses top-line aluminum piping with Silicone hoses, all properly mounted and supported and feeding the engine in a factory-looking way.     

Bulletproof Torqueflite Auto trans. This is NOT the weak, 4 speed electronic trans. This is the lasts-forever Torqueflite 3speed auto with lockup converter. Thee trans will outlast you. They just do not go bad. Same basic design for 30 years, it works great. Serviced last year.

Body work is straight, smooth and free of serious defects. There is a very minor parking lot ding on Driver side that happened this past weekend. Runaway cart at Shoprite. Not bad at all...and if it were warmer I'd work it out. Paint is all there, not cracked, dry or peeling. Still shines great. Paint could easily pass for a couple-few years old.  Bumpers not cracked or faded. Pinstriped.  No rot in the quarters, see pics.  Glass is all good. No leaks.

This car drives great. Really. NO shaking, rattles, vibrations, wiggles. Nothing. Straight and true.  NO suspension noise. Newer KYB gas shocks. Sway bar end-links replaced 4 mos ago. These are high-wear items that must be replaced every 25K miles or they make a rattle-noise when it's cold out. I've had multiple Chrysler mini's and they all get end-links every 2 years.

Wheels are by Vision and were put on in February 2013.Not universal fit crap..these were specific to this van with proper spacing, pattern and hub center. That's why they run perfectly smooth.  The Tires are new TOYO ( No Chinese crapola tires. I only use the best, my safety is worth the extra cost) speed-rated tires. Size 235/65/16. These do not rub, ever. They look great, ride smooth and quiet and last 50-60k miles. Proper lugs used and special wrench is in the glove box.  

Stereo is a new Pioneer 4-ch hi-power w/Aux in, CD, and many functions. Works and sounds great. If you look in the pic at the CD plsyer, you see a green LED display. That is a digital Volt-meter I installed to monitor battery status and charging. Voltmeters are a must-have in every car.    

Brakes are newish. replaced in Feb when the wheels/tires were installed. Ceramic pads, metallic shoes in back. Quality USA made Drilled & slotted rotors. I dropped 15 feet off my 50 to 0 panic stop. Nice, firm pedal, no leaks. My only complaint is that the front pads are on the dirty side, so I have to give the wheels a wash more than I'd like. I was going to swap out pads on Spring for cleaner ones with less dust.

Exhaust is perfect. No rot, no leaks or noises. Solid and good to go.  Cooling system was flushed for cleanliness and is good to go. Steering is good to go, with 1 hose recently replaced due to a slooow drip. Seems to be good to go now, no new drips that I see. 

The not so good: 

The headliner sucks. The back 2/3 is fine. The front is, well, sagging and a bit of a mess. Doesn't hit my head, but it's not up to my standards. I have, and will include, a brand new headliner for you. It's a 3 hr job to do it.

You do NOT get: Power windows, Power locks, cruise control, sunroof, electric dog polisher, power sliding door or tailgate. No tilt wheel, no roof rack crossbars. What you DO get is a heater that works blisteringly well, AC that cools well. Power steering and brakes. Multiple cup-holders all over the car, 12V outlets, cubbys all over the place, an spare that has never been used. Tinted back glass, intermittent wipers, elec rear defroster with outside wiper.3 sliding seats for 7 people that come out and swap around. (not stow-n-go)  All the lights and bulbs work. Molded-to-fit front floor mats. Gauges  all work (don't laugh..this is a fairly common Chrysler problem. Called Chrysler dancing dash or phantom dash syndrome. Bad solder joints on the wire cluster on the backside of the gauge cluster cause some bizarre things. Can be fixed in an hour, but most mechanics don't; know what the heck to do, so they just toss a new $800 cluster in. I've fixed 2 of these for friends older cars.)

The rugs are OK. Fine in back and middle..but abut scruffy under driver mats.

Top of the door panels are plastic, and the sunlight has dried them out a bit. Not a performance thing, but it could look better. I just never got around to scrounging new ones. I see them here on the 'Bay for About $50 each.

Rear bumper top has some very  minor marks from loading/unloading boxes. If it warms up, I was planning on having a flexible barrier sprayed on. If I can, I'll include this for you.

Driver door weather-strip should be replaced. They are $25. It doesn't leak or make noise, but it gets hit by feet getting in and out. There are 2 seals, the outer water seal is fine.

The slider door glass adhesive has discolored a bit, and it shows through the tint. No leaks, but it's not aesthetically perfect. I wanted to remove the glass, scrape the glue off and reglue it. The glass guy talked me out of it. Said it's not worth the trouble. Dunno if you can even see it in the pics. Just want to be clear about everything.   

I apologize for some of the pics being sideways..they were straight-up on my computer but somehow ended up sideways. You get the idea.

So, there is my screamin' mini. It's a great mini that has done me well as it will for you. It's sporty looking so you won't look like a dorky Soccer-parent in a plastic-cladded land-barge. It gets up and moves, drives smooth and gets very decent (for a mini) mileage on 87 gas. If you want a reliable van for the same cost as a high-miler, go for it. If you want all the doo-dads and high miles is OK with you, then skip this one. Do a quick search..there is a similar van right now, listed at 118K miles for $3200+. Same van in green. The interior seems nicer, but body is a bit clapped-out, faded, cheapo rubber and a pile-o-miles. $3200...really?

Van is listed in several venues, so I reserve the right to end this whenever. A PayPal deposit is required. You are NOT bidding on the right inspect. I finish all my deals up no matter what, I expect the same. Deposits are not refundable for any reason, no way, no how. I do this to weed out tire-kickers, BS'rs and story-tellers. Anytime you buy a used item sight-unseen, you need to expect some surprises, good and bad. I've gone through this 6 times on EBAY with cars..some really expensive ones, too. I've always found some things that irked me a bit, but also had pleasant surprises. I've been accurate and honest, I think my 15year record with 100% perfect feedback says a lot. These ratings include 6 cars...every buyer was pleased.  If you are not comfortable, I suggest a dealer. They're skilled at hiding problems, so I don't think you can do better, but if it makes you feel better, go for it. Please, I do not waste people's time and I request you no do that to me.