1973 Plymouth Cuda 340-4 Speed Pistol Grip-real Cuda-nr on 2040-cars
Graham, Washington, United States
The basics: This is an original 1973 Plymouth Cuda 340 - 4 speed-Pistol Grip Car. The fender tag decodes as follows:
The numbers on both the radiator support and trunk lip all match. The engine is not a matching numbers 340, but it is a 1973 vintage 340 engine. Lets start with all the good stuff. The Engine is totally rebuilt and BALANCED and I have all the receipts to prove it. I had the block sonic tested and bored to .040" over(in the receipt stack is the work sheet for each bore on each side), The short block was rebuilt to stock specs: crank turned, new bearings, rods reconditioned, new rod bolts, new cast pistons(factory style), new rings, new piston pins(floating factory style), new cam(mopar performance pn P4452761(similar to factory specs for the earlier 340's), new lifters, new pushrods, new motor mounts, new gaskets throughout, new freeze plugs, new oil pump, etc. The heads were totally gone through and new thick style bronze valve guides were installed, the valves were reconditioned, new MP valve springs installed, new viton seals and MP retainers and locks were installed also. This was all done in 1992 and 1993 and the engine has never been started since. It has been inside my garages in 2 different homes in that time and I have periodically turned it over by hand and shot a little oil in the cylinders to keep it lubed. The factory 4 bbl manifold is in place as is the Rebuilt factory numbers correct Thermoquad. The exhaust manifolds were re-surfaced flat so they could bolt to the heads with no gaskets, coated with Eastwoods goop, and it has never heat cured (as the engine has not been started), but it has hardened none the less. New water pump, fuel pump, factory hoses, factory belts, factory correct spring clamps, heater hose, etc., etc., etc. I could go on and on and I feel like I have, but suffice it to say, if its on the engine, its either been rebuilt or replaced with new. The Transmission: Totally gone through with all new bearings, bushings, a couple of new forks, new synchros, inspected gear packs, it is like new. As is the Pistol grip shifter, which was returned to Hurst and totally rebuilt using their service(done in 1993). It is good and tight, just like new again. The actual pistol grip handles are a little loose on the chrome shifter handle, but not to bad. New Hayes Clutch, Pressure Plate and Throw out bearing installed inside the factory aluminum bell housing. Transmission was repainted with Eastwood gray paint. The Rear Axle: Totally rebuilt 8-3/4" with 3.55 factory Sure-Grip. New carrier bearings, new pinion bearings, new axle bearings(factory correct Timken tapered roller bearings). Axles, gears and Sure Grip were inspected, cleaned and re-used. The housing was taken to bare metal and repainted black. New 10" brakes were installed onto factory backing plates with factory turned drums and all new hardware was installed. The driveline was rebuilt and repainted also. The leaf springs were inspected, repainted, and new rear bushings installed. It has its factory rear sway bar in place, also refinished and installed with new bushings. The front suspension was totally gone through with new Bushings in the upper and lower control arms, new upper and lower Ball Joints, new tie rod ends, new idler arm, all purchased from PST. The only thing not replaced was the pitman arm, it was in good shape as was the drag link. The correct factory Torsion bars are in place with new paint also. The front brakes were totally gone through also, rebuilt calipers, new bearings resurfaced rotors, new pads, new seals, new hoses, new everything. The factory Power brake booster was sent out and rebuilt and re-cad plated. New brake master cylinder, used and inspected factory porportioning valve was reinstalled with the cleaned out and re-installed brake lines(hard lines, all the soft lines are new). The shocks are all KYB's that have been painted black to look factory. Brand new Modine 3 core radiator, non numbers correct, couldn't find a good numbers correct radiator, so if your a stickler for numbers, you will need to find a different radiator, but this one is brand new and in perfect condition. NEW Fuel Tank also, with factory 5/16" fuel pickup and new filter sock. All the factory fuel lines were blown out and cleaned and re-installed. The body: Again lets start with the good. The fenders are in great shape and have not been cut and have no rust, they also don't match the original color of the car, big deal. The upper and lower valances are also in good shape as is the hood and doors. The floor pans are in good shape also and do not need anything more than cleaning and paint. The frame rails are in great shape through out the car and are very solid. Now for the bad: The roof has some rust evident under the factory vinyl top and someone years ago put in a non factory sunroof. New factory roof panels are available and would be recommended to ditch the sunroof. The quarters are rusty in the back lower section and will need at least patch panels installed, but my plan was to replace the whole quarter so I could see how bad the inner wheel wells were also and replace those as needed. The trunk floor needs to be replaced. Its there, but has many holes and pin holes. The trim: Most all the stainless and chrome trim is in great shape, as are the taillights, tail panel, etc. The grille is there and in decent shape, but has some of the bars missing. The lower grille with the road lamps is in decent shape. The bumpers are in good shape as are the big guards. For show purposes they would need to be re-plated, but they are great for a driver and could be left for last as they are that nice. The headlamp surrounds are not installed, but they are included, they are lying loose in the back seat. Overall, the sheetmetal is very straight with the normal parking lot dings, but nothing major. You will need a new rear valance panel with the cutouts for the exhaust tips, I do not have one. The exhaust is there but not that great and I would have it replaced with some correct mandrel bent tubing (that was my plan anyway). The interior: The seats appear to be B Body style buckets, so you'll need to replace or trade for the correct style seats. The back seat is pretty nice, as is the dash and the instrument panel. The carpet is in need of replacement as it is not the original type carpet and looks like it, although it is in good condition. This is a non console car, so you get to see the pistol grip in all its glory. The headliner is in good shape also amazingly as are the sunvisors. The door panels are in great shape as are the kick panels. Even the sill plates are nice. The steering column is also in good shape. The glass is all there, and very useable with some minor scratching. What this car needs the most besides rust repair is a underdash wiring harness. I tried to chase bad wires since I have owned the car(22 years) and I gave up on the wiring a long time ago. Whoever buys this car needs to just crack open the Year One catalog and order all new wiring, period. If you are going to spend the big bucks to make this car right, you sure don't want a short to ruin everything, so plan on all new wiring. This is the reason the engine has never been started, I am afraid the car will burn because of the wiring. The battery cables are new, correct and you won't need those. The battery tray and brace are new also. The starter relay is new also. You will get factory steel 14" wheels with useable tires, they are just there to get the car to you, I know they won't be used when the car is finished. Like I said, I have owned this car for 22 years and I (well, my wife had some imput) decided that I have too many projects and not enough time or money to finish them all, so I am selling a couple to start with and we'll see where we go from there. This car is super dry and has been ever since I bought it. All the rust damage was done prior to 1992 as it has been inside ever since except for moving from one home to another once in that time and when I rolled it out, cleaned it up and took these photos. I am not interested in any trades, like I said, I don't need any more projects and the money from this will finish another project hopefully. I have more pics I can email if you are interested. I can even take photos of certain areas if you need them. I have started this auction at what I believe to be a reasonable price and I will sell it to the high bidder with NO RESERVE. I will require a $500 non refundable deposit immediately following the auction via Paypal. If you cannot comply with this request, please contact me before bidding and inform me of what you can do and I will decide then if that is acceptable. Full purchase price must be in my hands within 5 days from the end of the auction in the form of a certified payment, bank transfer or cash. I can store the car for up to a month following the auction, giving you time to make arrangements for shipping. Shipping and all related expenses, logistics, etc are the sole responsibility of the the winning bidder. I can assist in the loading of the car onto a truck or trailer. Remember, it doesn't run, but it does move easily and steer. Also please check my location. I am all the way up in the corner of the NW part of the country. Shipping could be expensive if you live on the east coast. Thanks, good luck, email me with any questions, because I am sure I have missed a few points here and there. You are welcome to call me, but only evenings between 3pm-7pm PACIFIC TIME, or 9am-7pm on the weekends. Ask for Dave 253-576-1835. Thanks and good luck. |
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