This is Nigel, my Midget. I've driven it for seven years, many of those as my daily driver. It's mechanically and cosmetically sorted, and although it's not a show car, it runs well and reliably. Structural problem areas for these cars like the rockers, A-pillars, suspension mounts and underbody, are all solid and rust-free.

This is a MK IV "rubber bumper" Midget, which has the Triumph 1500 engine. I've taken the bumpers off, which makes it look like the earlier style Midgets. It's not as rev-happy as the earlier BMC A-series engines, but it has more torque down low, which makes this car a joy to drive around in-town. Typical of all Midgets, which are four-speed manual without overdrive, it gets a bit buzzy at American Interstate speeds, but shines at moderate speed on twisty roads. You'll find yourself seeking out lonely back roads, secondary, and surface streets just for the sheer fun of getting to your destination!

The heater works great, and is snug and comfortable in the coldest weather.

The convertible top has been recently replaced, as have wearable components like the brakes, hoses, and bearings. Midgets are easy to maintain and work on, have a friendly and active community of enthusiasts, and loads of replacement and restoration parts are available from several sources in the aftermarket.

This Midget has been mildly customized, all of which can be easily reversed if you want to bring it back to stock. Unlike many classic and sports cars, modifications do not appreciably affect the value of Midgets, and most owners like to personalize their cars. In addition to its appearance, I have removed many unnecessary systems (most of which were tacked on to the original design to meet Federal regulations at the time,) to make this simple car even simpler.

I strongly believe in being as honest as possible when selling on eBay, so take a good look at the pictures. There are more annotated pictures at my Photobucket account, which you can see by clicking here. Ask any questions and I'll answer them as best I can.

The odometer is five-digit, and there's no way to tell how many actual miles are on the car. Most of the systems have doubtless been rebuilt by this point in the car's life, but in my opinion it drives like a car with well under 100K...it seems closer to 50K to me, and the engine feels closer to 20K on a rebuild. It doesn't leak, burns no oil, the valve tolerances have never drifted, and so on.

To give as complete a picture of this car as possible, here's a complete list of the modifications, the good points, and the bad points. It's probably a case of too much information, but again, I want to be scrupulously honest to those who are interested.

Modifications to engine from stock

High energy coil w/o ballast
Bosch platinum plugs
Pierce manifold
Weber DGV carburettor w/ manual choke
Lucas 25D distributor w/ Pertronix electronic ignition (vacuum advance disabled)

Original Zenith Stromberg carb and intake manifold are included if you want them.

Modifications to exterior

Lucas-style fender mounted mirrors
Convertible top with zip-out rear window for flow-through ventilation in summer
Rostyle wheels painted all black with stainless trim rings
Lower rockers painted body color
Rubber bumpers removed - can be replaced; mounting points remain.
Stock front markers mounted in fenders
Front side markers "shaved"
Early style grille (attached to front bumper mounts.)
Fillers under taillights (removable to re-mount rear bumper)

Original rubber bumpers and front markers are included if you want them.

Modifications to interior

Color changed from black to camel throughout (using SEM vinyl dye)
Closely-tailored custom carpet made and installed using only snaps -- no glue, for easy removal. Can be used for new patterns if desired.
Fire extinguisher mounted, with matching carpeting.
Headrests removed and holes in seats plugged with matching vinyl inserts.
Rear-view mirror is a low-mount early style that attaches to the windscreen tie rod.
Glovebox lined with camel-color faux suede.
Custom center console, (easily changed back to stock if desired:) radio and speaker holes blanked, clock installed, map light relocated from top to bottom of console. EGR light removed.

Original headrests are included if you want them.

Modifications to electrical
Limited to general streamlining -- disconnection and/or removal of unneeded subsystems to simplify future troubleshooting. Most bypassed systems are the Federally mandated warning and emission systems that were tacked onto the original design.

EGR service interval counter and warning light
Running-on control valve
Brake pressure shuttle switch and warning light
Time delay buzzer
Handbrake switch
Door lamp switches
Seat belt switch and warning light
Ignition buzzer switch

Panel lamp switch - removed, because who wants Lucas gauges dimmer?
Windscreen washer - disconnected; washer motor inoperative and never used anyway. Washer switch has been repurposed as horn switch.

Modifications to Federal emission control components.
Commonly called desmogging -- be aware if you live in a state that requires original emissions equipment on classic cars.

Running-on control valve removed (however, the gas tank evaporative system is still intact and functioning)
AIR manifold, AIR pump, and associated valves and hoses removed
AIR manifold ports plugged at head
Hot air hose, valve, and air cleaner box removed
EGR inoperative and valve lines removed
EGR counter bypassed with one-piece speedometer cable
Catalytic converter removed
Distributor flame trap removed
OPUS electronic distributor removed (replaced with 25D)
Zenith Stromberg carburettor removed (replaced with Weber)

Existing problems are all minor, and easy for an amateur wrencher to fix if you want while continuing to enjoy driving.

There is rust in the battery tray, behind the heater box. This is a common problem with Midgets, and easily fixed in several ways.

You can cut out the rust, purchase an exact replacement tray from the aftermarket, and weld it in.
You can custom make a patch out of diamond plate or sheet steel, and rivet it in place or use auto body adhesive.
You can paint over the rust with POR, cut a piece of plywood to size, and drop it in place.
You can live with it as-is.

The window channel felts are aftermarket, and thicker than standard, making the windows very stiff to roll up and down. Likewise, the aftermarket windscreen top seal is too thick.

The front valance is dented; it looks like it had hit a curb at some point. On the MK IV Midget, the valance is welded in place, instead of just bolted on like the earlier models. Replacements are available in the aftermarket.

The gearshift retainer was originally plastic, and usually breaks with age. I have replaced mine with a large cotter pin to retain the gearshift, and this fix has worked fine for me. The pin is hidden under the gaiter and shifts normally.

The seats have rip and patch repairs in places. Replacement original-style seat covers are available in the aftermarket.

The gearshift gaiter is worn at its upper end, and the knob is aftermarket. Gaiters are available in the aftermarket, or the original can be used as a pattern for replacement.

The interior dye is wearing through in places with frequent contact; around the crank handles, on the panel adjacent to the accelerator pedal, around the ignition lock, under the rear view mirror, etc. I will include several spray cans of SEM Camel vinyl dye for you to touch up these areas if you want.

The horn button contact ring is plastic and has broken with age. I have re-routed the horn contacts to the windscreen washer switch at the end of the stalk. This was intended to be only a temporary fix, but it works great! I can wave at another approaching MG driver, steer, and toot the horn at the same time without fumbling with the horn button! It's all easily reversible to original if you want, but try it out first!