Green 1997 Civic Lx 4 Door Sedan, Manual Trans, Vtec Sohc Minime on 2040-cars

VIN: JHMEJ6576VS004138 Year: 1997
Make: Honda
Model: Civic
Trim: LX Sedan 4-Door
Options: CD Player
Safety Features: Driver Airbag, Passenger Airbag
Drive Type: FWD
Power Options: Air Conditioning, Cruise Control, Power Windows
Mileage: 210,000
Exterior Color: Green
Interior Color: Tan
Disability Equipped: No
Number of Cylinders: 4
Warranty: Vehicle does NOT have an existing warranty

Condition: UsedA vehicle is considered used if it has been registered and issued a title. Used vehicles have had at least one previous owner. The condition of the exterior, interior and engine can vary depending on the vehicle's history. See the seller's listing for full details and description of any imperfections.Seller Notes:"Needs a timing belt/water pump/front main seal service. There is some minor rust and chipping paint. The trunk leaks a little water."

This is a 1997 Honda Civic LX sedan manual shift with green exterior and taupe interior. It has 210,000 miles and I am the third owner of the car. I purchased it with 93,000 miles  in Connecticut.

Engine, Transmission & Exhaust:
Mini-me conversion (D16Y8 VTEC head on D16Y7 block) at 107,000 miles Cylinder head was a rebuilt assembly. Head gasket, head bolts, timing belt water pump, and tensioner replaced with OEM parts at this time as well.

AEM dry flow filter with Sceptre velocity stack and high-temp painted and wrapped 3" Sceptre intake pipe
S2000 throttle body (62.5mm)
Blox intake manifold
240cc (EX, SI, integra) injectors
Edelbrock fuel rail
Blox FPR
AEM cam gear
Holley Airmass header
2.25" Invidia test pipe with welded Vibrant SS core Catalytic converter, 2.36" SS Top Fuel 0-1000 exhaust
Civic VX oil cooler (sandwich type, oil to water)
Blox sandwich adapter for oil gauges
97 EX OBD2a ECU and engine wire harness (does not look for FTP sensor, which 1997 LX does not have)
OBD1 air temp sensor with adapter harness
Civic EX sedan/coupe transmission (shorter gears)
B&M Edge shifter
Braided clutch line
“VTEC” SOHC valve cover (bare aluminum)

Suspension, wheels, tires, and brakes:
All bushings, ball joints, springs, shocks, struts, hats, sway bar links, wheel bearings, tie rods, pads, shoes, rotors, and drums replaced around 150,000 miles; except for performance parts, all OEM Honda parts.

Koni SRT.T shocks and struts
H&R OE Sport springs (about .75" drop)
19mm Del-Sol rear sway bar with custom SS end link adapters
Hardrace rear upper arms (rear camber adjusters)
PasswordJDM rear lower tie bar
Carbing front lower tie bar
Skunk2 front upper tie bar
Civic HX wheels with aluminum lug-locks and low cost Firestone off-brand rain tires
Summit Racing dimpled and slotted rotors and semi-metallic pads
Braided lines (Russell rear, Stop-Tech front)
Original 14” steel wheels with hubcaps (wheels are a little bent, but not bad; one hub cap is cracked and all are loosing their paint)
175mm width snow tires (not mounted on wheels)

Interior and electronics:
Integra seats
S2000 steering wheel with airbag and cruise control switch
Custom CRV gauges with red painted needles
All dash lights are amber
shift-I shift light integrated into cluster
AEM AFR gauge on A-piller
Prosport oil pressure and fuel pressure gauges in OBX cluster pod
SPA 2 in 1 oil and water temperature gauge integrated into radio bezel
Field's SFC-VTEC Controller (not currently wired in)
Clarion USB/AUX/CD/radio head unit
Front speakers are good (forget brand), rear OK and not blown (forget brand)



Exterior:
Gunmetal replacement headlights (fitment not so great, but they light up the road well)
ESUSE fog lights (just like the factory made them, glass and metal...great fogs)
OEM mud guards
Coupe grille

Extra parts that will come with the car if you want them at no extra cost…not taking them will not reduce the price:
3 – 16” bronze MB Weapon wheels with 2 good Parada Spec2 tires (1 wheel has a small bend, 1 wheel has curb rash, 1 wheel is perfect. The 4th wheel is severely damaged and the other 2 tires have sidewall damage)
Spoon style urethane front lip spoiler
Steel tow hooks, red, made in USA (rennenmetal.com)
Original D16Y7 cylinder head and intake manifold (nothing wrong when was pulled, only for mini-me swap)
DC Sports 4-1 one piece header (used, some dings and scrapes, painted high temp white)
Original D16Z/Y valve cover (says HONDA)
Magnaflow OEM replacement catalytic converter (used for about 70K miles, but still works well)
2 sets of OEM headlights (one set original from car, one used set that were dismantled for custom work that was never completed, both sets need to be refinished)
Original LX steering wheel with airbag and CC switch
Original rubber brake lines
JDM F20B throttle body (from automatic, 58mm)
Lots of spare bolts, hoses, wiring and other hardware (some new, some used)
Will throw in a pair of Craftsman jack stands
Any Honda specific fluids I have left, including Mobil 1 oil Motul 500 (Brake fluid) and K&N filter cleaner (for the AEM filter)
Pyramid 6.5 inch Bass tube with Sony 50 watt amp


Notes:
Oil always changed between 3K and 3.5K miles with Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic and Pure 1 oil filter since I purchased the car (there was some Castrol Syntec and FRAM TG filters used for a short period of time, I did not like the Oil pressure with these)

Most recent major maintenance:
Alternator replaced with a genuine Denso unit (made in Japan, rebuilt in USA)
Steering rack replaced with a rebuilt unit around 170K miles

Maintenance needed:
1. The engine is due for the second timing belt and water pump service (front main seal needs to be done too)
2. The oil pan looks like it’s leaking as well (although it is hard to tell with the front main seal leaking)
The engine looses less than 1/2 a quart, probably about 4-6oz every 4 weeks, it drips very slowly, you can not watch it drip, but the oil pan is coated in oil
3. The headliner is sagging and needs to be reupholstered
4. The trunk leaks a little when it rains (only if the car is parked flat or pointed downhill, not uphill); I replaced the outer tail lights’ seals (on the quarter panel) which did not solve the problem. I never got around to replacing the inner tail light seals (on the trunk)
5. The clear-coat is flaking off and the wheel wells have a very minor amount of rust coming on; there is also a bit of rust on the passenger side a-pillar/windshield
6. The silicon coating on the outside of the SS brake lines is cracking (all four); there is no wear on the braid or the Teflon on the inside, but they will need to be replaced soon and brake fluid needs to be flushed.
7. Cruise control is not working; I have tested all of the electronic components as good, so the problem is most likely the actuator.

Notes:
The bumper could be taken off and positioned a little better
The body has some dings, dents, and scrapes, but it is in overall pretty good shape for it’s age
There is evidence of a previous body repair, it seems to have been rear ended once
The windshield is quite pitted as most are at this age
The driver’s side window is not factory, so the car was broken into at least once
All of the power windows are slow, the cause could be several things including the motors
The hazard switch and rear defroster switch do not illuminate; they need new bulbs

I used the D16Y8 engine wire harness, which does not have a second O2 sensor connector; for that engine the secondary O2 runs through the dash harness. I did not know this when I did the swap, I spliced in an O2 connector to the main harness (ground, heater, and signal) and the fourth wire runs to the fuse box and is tapped into the alternator SP fuse. This was the only way to use the EX harness without swapping the entire dash harness to an EX as well (documented on Honda forums).

None of the gauges are spliced into anything, they are all “tapped” into the fuse box through terminal blocks mounted near the fuse box; the shift light uses eyelet connectors that uses the factory’s connections on the gauge cluster.

I am a smoker and my friends are smokers, there are some burn holes
The carpet has always had a bad coffee stain in the middle of the rear seat

I have a silencer for the exhaust; it’s loud with the silencer and very loud without it

I would keep this car if I had the space or the time to work on her. We purchased a new, bigger car for peace of mind; we only have one garage spot and needed something with more room for the family.
She’s been really good to me and never left me stranded. The car is quick, not fast. But I was surprised by how much faster this car is compared to every middle-of-the-road car I test drove. She handles great and is a blast to drive on the street. The engine still runs very clean and has good compression. When the timing belt job is done, she will continue to purr for many more miles. I tuned the car on a dyno once (Fuel Pressure, Cam and Ignition timing), with stock exhaust, intake manifold and throttle body and was surprised how much power it made and flat the torque curve was. The Cam is advanced two degrees, ignition and FP set to stock. Compression is high and the car runs on PREMIUM, it gets mid 30’s in MPG on the highway. You can retard the cam timing and Ignition timing to run on regular, but gas mileage and drive-ability will suffer. I have a huge file of parts receipts and services that were not performed by me.

I’m asking for $3500 negotiable. I am willing to reduce the price further by selling it without the HX wheels (I will mount the snow tires or the regular tires on the steel wheels), the S2000 steering (I will install the factory Civic wheel), the AEM and the SPA gauge or any combination.

Payment terms are money order, cashier’s check, or cash. I will drop the car off locally in North Jersey (let me know where), but otherwise transportation is up to you. The car is currently insured, inspected and registered, so test driving is possible. Mileage will go up slightly, as I am still driving it occasionally. The car is in Montclair and I reside in West New York, please give me a couple of days to arrange for a look.