Find or Sell Used Cars, Trucks, and SUVs in USA

1931 Ford Model A Closed Cab Pickup. Traditional Hot Rod. 390 Cadillac on 2040-cars

US $30,000.00
Year:1931 Mileage:1600
Location:

Baltimore, Maryland, United States

Baltimore, Maryland, United States
Advertising:

Only selling because I want a hotrod or Custom that I can fit the wife and kids in, and go for a ride. I built this for myself, and this is not my first build. I don't build junk (link below will take you to some of my other projects and work). Most of the build was HERE, so there's no mysteries about what's underneath the paint or what my work looks like. All the details, pictures, and links to video on my WEBSITE

Chopped and channelled real Henry Ford steel. Early 390 Cadillac with large logo Strombergs. Needs nothing, turn key. Drive it anywhere, any time of year; and haul stuff. An every nut/bolt build, finished in August 2013 with some fine tuning since. So, all the shakedown is done. Fly in and drive it home, or cover my travel expenses and I'll drive it to you (gives me an excuse for one last road trip).

Yes, you may see $15000-$20000 Model A hot rods (not rat rods), and wonder what makes this one worth $30000. Well, these things might not appeal to you but some of the differences are things like (you can do the math yourself if you want to):
  • Clean/Clear Title as a 1931 Ford Model A
  • Traditional Cadillac engine and trans, instead of the standard 350/350 (yawn)
  • Things like Strombergs and Offenhausers, custom cast aluminum valve covers,  as opposed to an Edelbrock, Holley and Mr. Gasket.
  • Completely finished interior with amenities like carpet, heat (vintage), turn signals, working gauges, hazards, and even has a courtesy light, hidden stereo and speakers. And all new glass. It also has a Wiper switch and wiring if you want to easily install a wiper (I opted for rain-x for a variety of reasons).
  • The top is snapped on and removable, BUT it is sealed underneath with velcro and the leading edge uses a slide in welting to keep everything pretty much weather proof.
  • One wire PowerGen for reliable charging but a traditional look, instead of some run of the mill late model alternator that looks so out of place.
  • Real Henry steel cab, bed and frame; instead of fiberglass, Brookville, and the like.
  • Body off rust repair with TIG'd and butt welded panels and alot of hammer and dolly work (I take pride in my work).
  • The doors shut well and stay shut, using Model A latches as opposed to unsightly bear claws.
  • Everything stripped to bare metal, top to bottom. All body parts media blasted, epoxy primed, then real paint (base/clear) INSIDE and OUT.
  • Tons of cool vintage and custom parts instead of a bunch of catalog stuff from Speedway. 
  • traditional tires and wheels (Firestone wide bias plies), instead of radials and random  mag wheels
    • Wheels are actually chrome hoops on powdercoated centers, as opposed to trim rings and rattle can paint.
  • traditional rear end: 57 chevy rear w/ positraction, instead of some open late model axle out of a junkyard car.
  • new reverse eye Posies Super Slide transverse springs  (including the "Heavy Duty" model up front), instead of clapped out old springs or an IFS
  • Suspension design and geometry is correct w/ all mounts in double sheer, instead of stuff that is going to bind and break weak mounts.
  • Reversed original firewall with lots of work instead of some catalog part from Howells or Mac's
  • Reversed original early Ford Mustang steering box, so the geometry is correct and it doesnt look out of place.
  • Open and usable bed for hauling parts etc.; instead of a toneau cover, cooler and gas tank taking up all the space.
  • Original Ford headlights instead of reproduction King Bees or Dietz
  • Traditional and versatile exhaust. Chrome replica 35-36 driveshaft tubes with removable baffles, depending on what kind of mood you're in. Exhaust has no visible brackets, compared to some unsightly clamps.
  • Brassworks completely custom brass radiator, instead of some cheap Ebay aluminum radiator shoehorned into the Model A shell. Also has an original Stainless Model A shell and not some aftermarket '32 grill. Aside from the air cleaner height, I went to great lengths to make sure a stock hood top would fit perfectly, for weather reasons as well as retaining the original looks of the truck.
  • Hardware is almost entirely new Stainless or Grade 8, NOT off the shelf Grade 5 or less, and won't rust.
  • Real VIN plate, licensed by Ford.
  • Working emergency brake.
  • Documented wiring and diagram.
  • Lastly, I tried to think through everything and building accordingly since I hate doing more work than necessary. Examples are:
    •  Starter and oil filter can be removed w/o removing anything else
    • Cab and bed can be removed w/o having to dismantle more than necessary
    • Cab has trap doors in the floor for necessary maintenance.
    • Anything that is bolted through the floor/bed/firewall has welded bungs or nuts, so it's not a two man job with one person under the car
    • Underfloor Master Cylinder AND even the  pedal can be removed w/o disturbing anything else.

I don't mind trades for the following (cars must be running and road worthy car. I don't mind some odds and ends but no projects at this time.)
  • 2 door tri-five chevy (prefer hardtop or 2 door wagons)
  • chopped 50's two doors.
  • 55-57 Buick hard top
  • Cadillac convertibles (through late 70s)
  • other interesting family friendly 50's customs/hotrods/gassers
  • and all manner of 36-65 Harleys and parts (except Sportster), and /or cash. Hell, I'd trade for a container of old parts and no cash, if it was worth it.

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Auto blog

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Word coming in from across the pond has it that Ford is working on developing the business case to create a new Fiesta RS. The development is encouraged by the extremely positive reception the existing Fiesta ST has garnered to date, and the emergence of the above-pictured Fiesta RS WRC rally car, but it'll take more than goodwill to make a more extreme version a reality.
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