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Take a close look at the guts of the Chevy Volt battery, powertrain

Just how intimate would you like to get with the powertrain in a Chevy Volt? If you're anything like YouTube user d55guy, then spending a half hour filming yourself taking apart the battery pack, motor, inverter and more for a look inside sounds like your idea of fun. After all, this way you get to see the cooling system, the heavy safety kill switch and count up the individual cells in the battery modules. Fun! Turns out, we also enjoy languidly paced Volt dissection video goodness, and we think you might want to see it as well. So, we've embedded two videos below and if you don't have a better understanding of how the Volt is put together after watching them, well, at least you can't say we never tried to show you anything. Given that what's really happening here is the organized 'destruction' of an expensive and potentially dangerous object, let's talk safety. There's a serious disclaimer at the beginning of the videos and on the YouTube description page, but we feel the need to repeat the gist of it here: do not try this at home. The creator of the video says he is a trained engineer and has been doing things like this "for the better part of a decade," so he apparently knows what he's doing. With that in mind, watch it all below. When you're done seeing the insides of a Volt powertrain up close, if you need more filmed EV dissection/destruction, check out this video designed for first responders approaching a damaged Tesla Model S. This content is hosted by a third party. To view it, please update your privacy preferences. Manage Settings. This content is hosted by a third party. To view it, please update your privacy preferences. Manage Settings.

Junkyard Gem: 1985 Chevrolet Sprint

For in the 1985 model year, General Motors began selling Chevrolet-badged Suzuki Cultus hatchbacks in California. Sales of the cheap three-cylinder econobox in the rest of North America followed soon after (with the Canadian version known as the Pontiac Firefly), and did pretty well considering the crash in gasoline prices during the middle 1980s. Starting in 1988, the facelifted Sprint became the Geo (and, later on, Chevrolet) Metro. Here's one of the very first Cultuses sold on our shores, found in a San Francisco Bay Area car graveyard. Amazingly, the primitive rear-wheel-drive Chevrolet Chevette remained available all the way through 1987, competing with the thriftier front-wheel-drive Sprint in the same showrooms. For 1988, Pontiac started selling a rebadged Daewoo LeMans, so the Sprint/Metro never lacked for intra-corporate competition. Inside, you'll find the same stuff most mid-1980s Japanese econoboxes got: tough cloth upholstery and long-wearing hard plastics. Suzuki quality in 1985 wasn't quite up to Honda or Toyota levels, but you weren't paying Honda or Toyota prices for the Sprint. MSRP on this car started at $4,949, or about $12,000 in 2020 dollars. The cheapest possible 1985 Chevette cost $5,340, while a new no-frills Ford Escort would set you back $5,620. Subaru, however, could have put you in a punitively unappointed base-model Leone hatchback for just 40 bucks more than the Sprint that year. I think I'd have sprung the extra for a $5,348 Toyota Tercel, a $5,195 Mazda GLC, or— best cheap-commuter deal of all that year— the $5,399 Honda Civic 1300 hatchback. I was 19 years old and driving a Competition Orange 1968 Mercury Cyclone that year, and I recall feeling pity for Chevy Sprint drivers, new-car smell or not. Still, these weren't bad cars for the price, though a Sprint with an automatic transmission was a real character-builder. Got three cylinders and uses 'em all! 48 horsepower from this hemi-headed SOHC 1-liter. The Turbo Sprint — yes, such a car existed — had a howling 70 horsepower. The hood-latch release is a rectangular button that resembles a badge. 1985 Chevy Sprint Commercial The highest-mileage, lowest-priced car you can buy. 1985 holden barina commercial The Australian-market version was the Holden Barina, and the TV ads featured the Road Runner. 1983 SUZUKI CULTUS Ad In its homeland, this car got screaming guitars and a drive through New York City for its TV commercials.

Common Dodge Ram 1500 vs. Chevrolet Silverado breakdowns

These two trucks are famous for their ability to get the job done. Still, even the toughest vehicle can have mechanical problems at some time. What if we match the Dodge Ram 1500 and Chevrolet Silverado head to head? Let's find out more about common repairs for each model. Also, learn some tricks to pay for car repairs. Clunky Steering Both Dodge and the Chevy owners sometimes notice bumping and clunking when steering. This might be more noticeable when driving over bumps. The cause is usually different in each truck though. In the Dodge Ram, clunky steering is more likely due to a defective lower ball joint. Replacement costs around $300 - $400, parts and labor. Clunky Chevy Silverado steering is probably a steering rack failure. This problem appears more often in trucks with over 90,000 miles. Silverado steering rack repair will run you up to $1,000 or more. Starting Woes For the Chevy Silverado with over 130,000 miles, you might notice trouble starting. This problem may appear occasionally at first, but it typically gets worse. Excluding a weak battery, the culprit is usually the starter. Replacement will cost you around $330 - $500. Of the total cost, $90 is for labor only. Now the Dodge Ram might make a ticking sound when starting, especially on models with over 94,500 miles. The noise often disappears after the engine warms up. These symptoms may indicate a broken exhaust manifold. Repair costs range from $800 - $900. Burning Oil & Gas Gauge On The Blink Sometimes, the Dodge Ram burns oil much faster than normal. In models with over 125,000 miles, this often points towards a leaky intake manifold gasket. A knocking sound may also appear with acceleration along with possible engine misfire. The cost to repair is around $200 - $300. The Chevy Silverado has its own surprises, especially when you've filled the gas tank but the gauge still reads low. Or the needle fluctuates widely from low to full while driving. In trucks with over 120,000 miles, it's likely due to a faulty fuel sensor. You might need a full fuel pump replacement, which can cost you up to $820, parts and labor. Water Inside And Poor Heat The Ram 1500 rear window has been known to leak. You might notice the back seat and floor wet after a rainstorm. This is more common in trucks with over 65,000 miles. Resealing the Ram 1500 rear window costs around $150 - $250.