Find or Sell Used Cars, Trucks, and SUVs in USA

2 1965 Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu V-8 One Convertible on 2040-cars

US $4,000.00
Year:1965 Mileage:72200 Color: Apperson
Location:

Tompkinsville, Kentucky, United States

Tompkinsville, Kentucky, United States
Advertising:
Transmission:Powerglide
Body Type:2 door
Vehicle Title:Clear
Engine:327
For Sale By:Private Seller
VIN: 136375 Year: 1965
Number of Cylinders: 8
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Chevelle
Trim: Malibu
Drive Type: Auto Powerglide
Warranty: Vehicle does NOT have an existing warranty
Mileage: 72,200
Condition: Used: A vehicle is considered used if it has been registered and issued a title. Used vehicles have had at least one previous owner. The condition of the exterior, interior and engine can vary depending on the vehicle's history. See the seller's listing for full details and description of any imperfections. ... 

i am selling 2 1965 malibus one hard top  needs trunk pan and floor pans  and lots of work, and one convertible1965 malibu, now  the hard top is restorable hard top has title tennesee, the convertible is good for parts unless you like a real challenge pretty much rusted downloaded with good parts! convertible comes with extra frame, comes with 283 motor and trans, has a super sport interior to go with cars, you are getting both cars cant open the door on the convertible to get serial number! they both say malibu chevelles i can part these cars out for more than i am asking for them but really would like to see one restored, the convertible has a great  convertible frame worth at  a minimum 700.00 dollars i do have a 454 motor i am selling seperately,  if you are interested in convertible only or hard top only you can call me i will take 1900.00 for either by themselves 270-434-3582

(i can restore the hardtop car if you buy it if you want me 2 just call me for the restoration price) or just buy it and have fun restoring it yourself! feel free to call me 270-434-3582 for any questions or price to restore will sell it cheaper if we restore it! read below

JW RESTORATION if you want car restored by us read below! If you enjoy redoing them yourself your awesome nothing like the pride n joy of a finished product!

Process if you want me to restore this car or any car you must understand the following and know how far you want a restoration done and what type! i will restore any car to the quality and shape you want! for the right price! the more degraded a car is the higher the price to restore!

A restoration includes not only repair of the parts that can be seen – the body, trim, chrome, wheels, and the passenger compartment – but also the components that are not necessarily visible or otherwise evident, including the engine and engine compartment, trunk, frame, driveline, and all ancillary parts like the brakes, accessories, engine cooling system, electrical system, etc.[1] Repairs are made to correct obvious problems, as well as for cosmetic reasons. For example, even if a wheel is covered by a full hubcap and not seen, and is structurally sound, it should have the tire unmounted and any required repairs performed such as rust removal, straightening, priming, and painting.

Restoration is sometimes confused with the term "restomod." A restomod has portions of the car as they were when the car was first offered for sale as well as significant changes (updates). If any part of the car is updated, the car has been "restomodded," and not restored. An "original restoration" puts a car in the same condition as when it was first offered for sale. Many antique and rare cars may not be able to have a true to original restoration done because some parts may not be available to replace or to imitate fully, yet with the proper research, they may be restored to an overall authentic condition.

[edit] Disassembly

A auto restoration is based on drivability if its a daily driver restoration 8,000 to 11,000 or (basic restoration lower mid restoration)12,000 to 13,000 , or recommended by us is a complete restoration 14000 to 20,000 plus or over restoration 25,000 to 35,000! (

Complete restoration could include total removal of the body, engine, driveline components and related parts from the car, total disassembly, cleaning and repairing of each of the major parts and its components, replacing broken, damaged or worn parts and complete re-assembly and testing. As part of the restoration, each part must be thoroughly examined, cleaned and repaired, or if repair of the individual part would be too costly, replaced (assuming correct, quality parts are available) as necessary to return the entire automobile to "as first sold" condition.

the thoughness of a restoration depends how much is done! complete restoration All of the parts showing wear or damage that were originally painted are typically stripped of old paint, with any rust or rust related damage repaired, dents and ripples removed and then the metal refinished, primed and painted with colors to match the original factory colors. Wooden parts should go through the same meticulous inspection and repair process with reglueing, replacement of rotted or termite-damaged wood, sealing and refinishing to match the factory specifications. Chrome and trim may require stripping and repair/refinishing. Fasteners with tool marks, damaged threads, or corrosion need re-plating or replacement-unless the car was originally sold that way. The frame must be thoroughly cleaned and repaired if necessary. Often sandblasting of the frame is the most expeditious method of cleaning. The frame must be properly coated to match the original.

[edit] Interior

The interior of the vehicle should be examined and repaired or replaced to match those that were available from the factory. The seats must be repaired before being re-upholstered and the coil springs repaired, replaced, or retied. The instrument panel, or dashboard contains a number of gauges, each of which have to be inspected and cleaned, repaired, or replaced to be brought back to both operational and cosmetic standards of the car when it was first sold.

Developments in technology have made it possible to salvage the original automobile's interior by various restoration processes. Examples of this include leather seat, dash, console, steering wheel, door panel, and trim repair, as well as re-dyeing. the price you pay is how detailed the restoration is! it takes time and alot of money to pay a experienced team to restore this for you also remember we have other customers so be calm nothing done fast is done right!

Exterior

Apperson: Before and After
In a complete restoration, the repair and refinishing of the car's body and frame must again go through the careful inspection and subsequent repair, and recoating as necessary to bring the car to as first sold condition.

As part of the automotive restoration process, repair of the car's frame is important since in serves as the foundation for the entire car. The frame should be inspected for straightness, twisting, alignment, rust damage, stress fractures, collision damage and condition of the mounting points for the body, suspension, and other components. Any problems must be repaired, which can be a costly process. For many popular cars, replacement frames can be purchased from parts suppliers specializing in that make of vehicle. This is often a better option than investing money into a severely damaged frame. Depending on the frame construction, mud and water can make their way inside the frame and cause rusting from the inside out, so it can be seriously weakened with little or no external sign. This, and the fact that many replacement chassis/frames are galvanised, provides sound additional reasons to consider a replacement frame.

If rust is present on a body panel, the panel was damaged by a collision, or other damage is present, there are several options for repair: fix the damaged panel (minor damage), replacement (excessively damaged panels), or cutting out and replacing a portion of the panel (moderate damage - for many makes of vintage car, small partial patch panels are available and designed to be welded into place after the damaged portions are cut out). Although, this may seem simple in principle, in practice it is highly skilled work. One of the highest skills in restoration is the use of the English Wheel or Wheeling Machine to fabricate complete compound curvature panels from scratch. Many panels, (especially if from different sources), may be a problem to fit together and need reshaping to fit together properly. Variation in panel size and shape and 'fettling' by skilled metalworkers on the factory production line to make panels fit well, used to be common practice, especially with British and Italian sports cars. Even genuine New Old Stock factory panels may require panel beating skills to fit.

The re-installation of the repaired or renewed panels requires that the panels be trial fitted and aligned, to check their fit, that their shape 'flows' and the gaps between panels are correct. Consistent gaps are very important to a quality finish. Gapping gauges are available for this. The doors, hood, and trunk should open and close properly, and there should be no interference or rubbing. Steel or aluminium door skins and wing/fender edges can generally be adjusted with a hammer and dolly, in extreme cases a pulsed MIG weld bead on a panel edge, that is shaped with a grinder and file, can be good solution. At one time it was common practice to use lead loading to achieve tight panel gaps, especially in the coachbuilding business, but also on the production line. Lead loading is highly skilled, and requires safety precautions because ingested lead or fumes are toxic. The panels have to 'look right' together. This is a process of repeated adjustment, because the adjustment of one panel often affects the apparent fit of another. If there are multiple styling lines on the side of a car, it is generally best to align doors on the most prominent one. When you are satisfied with the panels on the car, they should be primed and painted a correct historical color for the vehicle if the restoration is striving for historical accuracy. An owner might want to have the car painted company colors or other, etc. Individual painting of the panels is generally the correct approach, as this will result in all parts of the panel being painted as opposed to partially re-assembling and then painting, leaving parts of the assembly that are touching or "blind" unpainted. It is useful to mark in some way, if possible, where the panels fit before removal for painting, to aid re-fitting. The separate painting approach should also result in no overspray on other parts of the since they will not be on the car at that point. It is important when re-assembling painted panels, to be aware that the paint is at its thinnest, and most easily damaged, on corners, edges, and raised styling lines, and to take extra care with them, such as temporarily taping with masking tape. This is also important when using ultra fine wet flatting paper before polishing, (or when using an electric polishing mop) for the best mirror like finish.

Colors and treatments applied to the panels, from the factory should be considered. Although more original looking, period enamel or cellulose paint will be less capable of protecting the car bodywork than modern paints. A car's owner may wish to have a panel or portion of the car entirely painted when in fact it may have come from the factory with undercoating or other coating applied to one side, which may be less attractive than a smoothly finished and painted panel. In other cases, the owner might paint or plate a collection of small parts to look similar for a better appearance, when the factory might have installed these as many different colors, since the factory's prime concern was a balance between function and cost and not the appearance of unseen areas. Given the cost of restoration it makes sense to many owners to upgrade the corrosion protection of paints, underseals and anti-rust waxes to far above the original factory standard to protect the time and money invested in the restoration. Some owner's feel these improvements would make the car a "Restomod", and not a restoration.

Mechanicals



The entire engine and all related systems are inspected and what ever is necessary to get them into original presale condition is done. The engine and all of the ancillary components – starter, generator/alternator, radiator, distributor, carburettor and all others – must be inspected and corrected to factory specifications. The engine itself, plus the transmission, clutch, overdrive unit, and even the driveshaft must be meticulously inspected, cleaned, and measured for wear. This will show up as deviation from original factory specifications. All of the parts – block, crankcase, head, transmission housing, etc. – should be inspected for cracks or other damage. All moving parts – pistons, crankshaft, camshaft, oil pump, bearing and bushings, flywheel, water pump and all others – must be cleaned and measured against factory specifications and, if necessary, machined or re-manufactured to bring them within specifications. The same goes for the transmission, clutch, differential and all other moving parts of the power line and drive line. All of the electrical system has to be inspected and, if it shows wear or damage, replaced if possible. Then the entire engine/driveline will have to be reassembled, replacing all worn bearing and bushings, seals, gaskets, belts. extra cost Some owners may decide to upgrade the mechanical parts during restoration. Depending upon how accepted these upgrades are by other owners of the same model this may reduce or enhance the value of the car. Commonly accepted upgrades would include safety upgrades, to brakes or fitting seatbelts for example, or usability upgrades such as fitting intermittent wipers, or electronic ignition instead of contact breaker points ignition. If these upgrades are easily reversible to the original condition, then they would be less controversial. Less acceptable to the classic car market may be major alterations like engine or gearbox transplants which would be more like ‘hot-rodding’. What is acceptable varies from car to car, from absolute originality to an anything goes attitude. A lot depends upon if the car is seen as (regular driver or a valuable museum piece). So it is important as a restorer or owner, to know what is acceptable to the potential market for the finished car.

Reassembly


Finally, the engine/driveline has to be re-installed in the frame, the brakes, wheels and other parts re-installed, the body fitted to the frame and the entire car rechecked and tested.

Restoration of a car is a daunting task, not one to be undertaken lightly, or by the inexperienced. A full restoration can take many years and can cost thousands of dollars;[2] often, and generally, well in excess of what the finished value of the car will be. Many jobs will have to be farmed out to specialty shops; those with the special knowledge and equipment to do the job. Often a restoration once started is left unfinished and the car and parts can be purchased for a fraction of their worth. However, if a person buys an unfinished project, it is imperative to be sure that all of the parts are there. Finding parts for an orphan or rare car can be near impossible.

There are different levels of automotive repair. The highest quality level, generally unobtainable for the amateur restorer, is the Concours d'Elegance level; these are cars that are frequently restomoded to a degree often beyond the quality that they were when they left the factory. There are virtually no deficiencies in the quality of the parts that were actually restored. Those parts that did not come on the car as it was first sold must have the highest level of fit and finish, and appear to have been original parts. Many Concours d'Elegance cars are not driven except for the short distances from their trailers to the show field.

Only when a car is completely placed back into the condition it was first sold in is it considered to be restored. Various aspect of a car may be repaired without the car being restored. A car that does not run can be repaired to running condition, but that simply means it will now run and does not mean that any part of the car has been restored. Automotive Restoration means that the car was put back into the condition it was first sold as. Anything else is either repair, or restomod. Between these two extremes are the vast bulk of cars that are seen as drivers, neighborhood show cars, and 20-footers - in that they look great from 20 feet (6 m) away. Many value guides offer six levels of quality, from a "parts-only" car to the best at "Number 1" - absolutely perfect in every way.

For the amateur, or even experienced restorer, there are a great number of help sources, books and magazines to assist with restoration of an entire car or specific parts. There are also enthusiast websites that can offer help advice and contacts for vehicle restoration.

Ground-up restoration

There are many restoration facilities in existence offering a broad range and quality of services. Some businesses focus their work on only specific components, such as engines, gas tanks, clocks, or chromed parts. Others perform complete restoration or remanufacture of virtually any car including any of its components. This includes restoration to a finished factory level, or better-than-factory condition. Some businesses have the capacity to restore and fabricate all components in-house coupled with the ability to recreate a car no matter what state of decay it is in (or literally how much of the car remains, sometimes as little as a single fender remains and nothing else).

Over restoration

Over restoration these cars are barely ever run or outside in the elements, mainly trailered ,muesum piece is the case of the complete over restoration resulting in a vehicle finished to a standard that is higher than when the vehicle was in when manufactured. Aspects may include excessively flatted and polished paint finishes or electroplating and polishing of parts that were not so finished originally.

For a serious museum or historically oriented collector, over restoration is generally undesirable. However private owners often prefer over restored cars that fit their gilded nostalgia. They prefer the car not as it was when they didn't own it, but as it should have been when they first wished they owned it. Such cars therefore dominate meets such as Concours d'Elegance and classic car racing.[6]

An exception is that a state that might have resulted from better than average maintenance when the vehicle was new may be considered an authentic example of well cared for cars in their own time. New cars are frequently polished and modified. Cars that were raced were routinely brought to standards higher than that to which they were manufactured. In this case, over restoration is the use of modern material, methods or knowledge to bring the car to a state that would have been impossible when it was new. When we at JW Restoration does a restoration it is done under
contract so both partys know what they are getting and whats being done

Auto Services in Kentucky

Wyatt-johnson Mazda ★★★★★

New Car Dealers, Used Car Dealers
Address: 2425 Wilma Rudolph Blvd, Guthrie
Phone: (931) 648-4300

Ww Auto Repair ★★★★★

Auto Repair & Service
Address: 3281 Taft Hwy, Dry-Ridge
Phone: (859) 824-6800

Wholesale Transmission Center ★★★★★

Auto Repair & Service, Auto Transmission
Address: 1564 Morgantown Rd, Bowling-Green
Phone: (270) 842-9052

Walker`s Pre-Owned Vehicles ★★★★★

Used Car Dealers, Wholesale Used Car Dealers
Address: 1322 E Wood St, Hazel
Phone: (731) 642-8500

Tony`s Automotive Repair Center ★★★★★

Auto Repair & Service, Automobile Parts & Supplies, Auto Transmission
Address: 857 Angliana Ave, Georgetown
Phone: (859) 254-2300

Tire Discounters Inc ★★★★★

Auto Repair & Service, Tire Dealers, Auto Oil & Lube
Address: 996 W New Circle Rd, Georgetown
Phone: (859) 225-8473

Auto blog

2018 Autoblog Technology of the Year finalists

Wed, Jan 10 2018

After months of prepping and several days of testing, we narrowed the field for Autoblog's 2018 Tech of the Year award to the Nissan Rogue with ProPilot Assist semi-autonomous driving system, the Lexus LC 500h and its new hybrid powertrain, and the Chevy Colorado ZR2 and its trick Multimatic spool-valve off-road shocks. Three very different cars with very different technologies duking it out for the award. Look for news of our winner at the 2018 Detroit Auto Show. We hand out this award every year to the technology or feature that we feel moves the bar forward for the automotive industry. Read more here on how our testing process works. We discuss, debate and count up score sheets, judging each vehicle and technology on a few different criteria. Is its purpose noteworthy? Does it work well? Does it advance the industry? The Nissan Rogue with ProPilot Assist was actually a prototype, as the technology will first debut in the 2018 Nissan Leaf. Still, we're here to test the tech and not the car. ProPilot Assist combines adaptive cruise control system combined with lane-keeping assistance. The system uses sonar, radar and a number of cameras for some light semi-autonomous driving and enhanced safety. While these systems aren't new individually, Nissan's system is affordable, intuitive, and coming to a mainstream product — democratizing the tech in a novel way, if you will. That's why it's here. The Lexus LC 500h uses a new powertrain that Lexus has dubbed the Multi-Stage Hybrid System. Basically it combines two types of transmissions Β— a CVT and a four-speed automatic Β— in a single unit mated to a naturally aspirated V6. That's complex and unorthodox technology, and Lexus engineered it to give drivers the efficiency of a CVT without sacrificing driving enjoyment. The package is subtle, working in the background to create a nearly seamless driving experience. It's engaging in a way most other hybrids can only dream of. The fact that it's wrapped in such gorgeous sheetmetal only makes things better. The Multimatic spool valve shocks in the Chevy Colorado ZR2 might seem low-tech compared to ProPilot Assist and the Lexus Multi-Stage Hybrid, but they represent a completely novel application of a technology that several years ago was so expensive that it was reserved for top-tier race cars. Like the LC 500h, these shocks really change your perception of how a vehicle like this should drive.

Survey says $25k barrier is a problem for EVs

Sun, 01 Dec 2013



The majority of consumers are more or less priced out of the market.
Electric cars are gaining popularity with the general public, but are they still too expensive? According to a survey 1,084 consumers by Navigant Research, a consulting firm located in Boulder, CO, 71 percent want their next car to cost under $25,000, while 41 percent won't go a cent above $20K. Looks like people are even thriftier than we'd originally thought.

How real is the Chevy Bolt EV and will it really cost $30,000?

Tue, Jan 13 2015

"This is us bragging that we can do this kind of car." That's how Michael Simcoe, GM's executive director for NA exteriors, described the Chevy Bolt EV concept, which made a surprise appearance at the Detroit Auto Show today. While there was talk of a 2017 production debut, this is for sure a concept vehicle. But that means the ideas behind the vehicle are perhaps more important than the details. For example, no one is talking about what size battery might appear in a production Bolt, but Simcoe would talk about how rapid progress in battery improvements made it possible for GM to make the bold Bolt declaration that promises 200 miles and a price tag of around $30,000 (after incentives). But if the Bolt makes it to market, it won't be until 2017 (as rumored) or later, is it really fair to promote the car as being available with a federal tax credit? For one thing, credits for plug-in vehicles may change in the next few years, but if the laws stay the same, each manufacturer is limited to 200,000 vehicles before the credits start to decline. GM is justifiably proud that it's sold over 70,000 Volts thus far, but with a new model coming out later this year and a few years to go until the Bolt potentially arrives, GM could be pushing right up against that 200,000 limit when the Bolt goes on sale. But Volt executive chief engineer Pam Fletcher told AutoblogGreen that, "We're just trying to take some of the confusion out." "Think about talking to the average consumer," she said. "First, going through the explanation of how the federal tax credit was set up, how it's being used and so on. [In the industry, we] have the luxury of understanding the nuances of that regulation, but right now people who aren't in the marketplace, they don't have the luxury of all that. It's already hard to communicate the details so we gave them data in a way that is what they're used to seeing." There was one question that drove the two-year Bolt gestation and design period, Simcoe said: What does a better battery offer a vehicle designer? "We've got a number of spaces we play in for powertrain technology and obviously electrification is one of them," he said. "With Volt 1 and then the Spark EV, with that development and batteries getting better for us, we started doing some practical packaging to deliver a vehicle which was not the traditional aero form which you see around electric vehicles.