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1986 Camaro Z28 81k 2 Owner Survivor $3,600 In Fresh Mantenance - L@@k! on 2040-cars
US $4,900.00
Year:1986
Mileage:81126
Color:
Location:
Hagerstown, Maryland, United States
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Up for sale is a very nice MARYLAND INSPECTED 1986 Camaro Z-28 2 owner survivor with 81K original miles - VIN # 1G1FP87H2GN148804
Please note: I could only upload 24 pics to ebay - but I have over 100 PICS and More Info posted here: www.aceweb.us This Z-28 was built in February 1986 at the GM plant in Norwood, Ohio. It was sold to its original owner on Sept. 10th, 1986 by the Chevy dealer in Middletown, MD with 10 miles on the odometer (see pics) The next documentation available is the Maryland Emissions Inspection showing that the car passed emissions on November 13th, 1996 with 24,000 miles on it at the time. So, in its first 10 years, this Z-28 averaged only 2,400 miles per year. The AutoCheck Report is impressive – it shows an AutoCheck Score of 50 with 2 owners (I am the 2nd owner). The report also shows that this Z-28 had regular Registration Renewals every 2 years from 1995 to 2010 with a new title issued in March 2010 with 71,000 miles. In August 2013 a duplicate title was issued and then the last event on the report is when I purchased the car in September 2013 with 79,953 miles. Just so you know, I am a “car guy” and a “perfectionist nut case” …. So I set off on a mission to go through this car from top to bottom, I like everything working perfectly as it did when the car was new. Under the hood, the engine and engine compartment were completely original. All of the factory wiring harnesses, clips, clamps, connectors… etc, were correct and untouched. After a good cleaning I started by flushing and changing all of the fluids:
From there, I scanned the ECM and found a Code 21 (throttle position sensor) - Code 15 (coolant temperature sensor) – and a Code 44 (oxygen sensor). I replaced all of the sensors, cleared the codes and scanned again with no problems found. The Oxygen Sensor and Coolant Temp. Sensor were new – I had a good Throttle Position Sensor in my parts box that I used. The On Board Diagnostics system works correctly - just ground the diagnostic terminal under the dash and the ECM flashes Code 12 on the SES (check engine) light as it should. From there I drove it a few miles to make sure no other codes would set – and with no codes, I went deeper into the engine with:
I pulled the original carburetor (Electronic 4BBL Quadrajet) and sent it to Carburetor USA in New Jersey for a very detailed professional rebuild. When I got the carb back it looked brand new – base adjustments done and ready to go. After installation, I adjusted the automatic choke, idle speed (high and low) , throttle valve cable - and the Electronic Idle Load Compensator which increases the idle slightly when the A/C or electric cooling fan is on. The A/C blows cold – there are no leaks, in fact, the system was still under full pressure when it was converted it to R134. With the rebuilt carburetor and all of the new tune up parts the car runs great. The automatic choke works correctly, the car starts as it should (hot or cold) , idles smooth and winds up quickly without hesitation. The transmission upshifts and downshifts smoothly and quietly as it should. I am a “nut” when it comes to “rattles and squeaks” so I literally went around and tightened the entire car. There are no annoying rattles, squeaks, clinks, clanks, clunks or thunks. On the road, this car runs great. I get out on the highway and set the Cruise Control at 65mph and it just cruises along as nice as can be. At 65 mph the tach reads about 2750 rpm, Oil Pressure reads 45 lbs with a Water Temp. of 160-170 degrees (see pics). A nice cool running engine is an engine that lasts a long time. The electric cooling fan system works exactly as it should. At about 235-240 degrees the fan kicks on and then kicks off again about a minute later when the water temp. goes down to about 210 degrees - the Idle Load Compensator increases the RPM slightly whenever the fan is on. While is was under the hood, I also installed:
The underside of the car is clean, solid and rust free other than a little surface rust here and there as one would expect on a car of this age. There are no fluid leaks that I can see – it’s clean and dry from front to back. After all of that work the Z-28 was running like a top, so I started turning my attention to the exterior cosmetics. The car was repainted at some point, but I have no way of knowing how long ago. It appears to be a decent paint job and the paint shows very nicely as seen in the pics. It looks like they taped off the original Rally Stripes so the car still has the original Rally Stripes as far as I can tell. There are no runs or overspray issues to speak of. All in all, it’s a very nice clean looking car for its age. Going by the Hagerty definitions – I would consider this a strong #3 car. After a good exterior cleaning I got started on the exterior with:
The doors don’t sag – the hinges are tight – so with the new weatherstrip kit installed, the doors close crisp and tight. There is no wind noise while driving and no water leaks at all when sitting or driving in the rain. So… with all of that done, I moved on to the interior. This car has the original stock interior that is in good condition for its age. There is the normal fading on the seats, but other than a wear spot on the side of the driver seat and small spot on the driver’s side rear seat bottom, the seats are in good original condition with no rips or tears. The dash pad is slightly warped but has no cracks – the door panel backings have seen better days but still look okay. The rear hatch area is in good overall condition – original spare tire – electronic hatch release and pull down work correctly – rear window defogger and third brake light also work correctly – as does the optional courtesy light in the rear hatch area. I pulled the spare tire and took pics of the wheel well (see pics) – bone dry and no rust issues here. While I had the spare tire out, I also installed a repro “jacking instructions” decal to the inside of the spare tire cover (see pics) I got started on the interior with a good cleaning – I took all of the seats out and used a professional steam cleaning machine on the carpet, door panels, seats and rear hatch area – then let it dry for 2 full days in the hot summer sun with the T-tops off and the doors open. It cleaned up very nicely and shows as an original interior in good condition for its age. After the cleaning I went ahead with:
That’s as far as I went with the interior. This Z-28 still has the original rear hatch shade which extends and retracts properly. It has the original (and rare) Z-28 Document Pouch that snaps up under the passenger side dash board – it has the original T-Top storage bag and it also has a pair of period correct T-Top Sun Shades. The “Glove Box” in the rear hatch area looks as if it’s never been used – the lock works perfectly as do the T-top locks and even the original courtesy light in the rear hatch area. I also have a fair amount of documentation that goes with the car (see pics). All in all – this is a great car for the money. It’s MARYLAND INSPECTED, it’s clean, it’s safe, it’s original, it’s correct, it’s straight, it’s dependable and after all of this work, its ready to run and drive anywhere with confidence. I was planning to keep going with it by redoing the interior but I decided instead to sell the Z-28 so I can restore my 1986 Firebird which was my first new car – I was recently able to reacquire it and now I want to restore it. This Z-28 would be a great “starter car” for young folks wanting a classic – it’s great if you want a nice classic car at a reasonable and affordable price – and it would be a great “family” classic and make for lots of family fun at local car shows. Values on these Third Gen Camaros are starting to increase so it’s a good investment too! IF YOU WANT MORE PICS PLEASE LET ME KNOW This Z-28 is an honest car and I am an honest “car guy” – these are the issues that I have found but not addressed. 1. the radio/cassette player does not work 2. the headliner needs to be recovered 3. small ding on driver’s side front fender 4. small scratch on driver’s door which has been touched up 5. body side molding on driver’s door is coming loose at one end 6. fuel gauge and oil pressure gauge “flutter” intermittently. 7. rear window defogger switch has a cosmetic blemish but works fine 8. needs fuse panel cover clip and diagnostic plug cover under the dash Based on the Hagerty definitions, this is a stong #3 car – and Hagerty shows an average value of $8,400 so this is your chance to get a great car and a great deal too! Car is located in Hagerstown, MD – you are welcome contact me through ebay to arrange an inspection and test drive or to ask any questions – if you want to talk by phone, pls include your phone number and best times to call. NO DISAPPOINTMENTS HERE – DON’T LET THIS ONE GET AWAY AUCTION TERMS $1,000 non-refundable deposit via PayPal within ONE HOUR of winning the auction or choosing “ Buy It Now” - Balance in cash within 72 hrs Car can be picked up in Hagerstown, MD 21740 Shipping is buyer’s responsibility (I will happily assist on this end) Car is sold “as is – where is” with no warranty expressed or implied Ask all questions and do all inspections before bidding Car is for sale locally – I reserve the right to cancel the auction if it sells locally All documents, and Maryland Inspection Certificates go with the car Zero feedback bidders, please contact me before bidding Do not bid or choose “Buy It Now” unless you have the cash in hand |
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