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Chevrolet Blazer Cst 4x4, Fuel Injected, 700r4 Trans, 134a A/c, 93,000 Miles!!! on 2040-cars

Year:1971 Mileage:93000 Color: / PAINT
Location:

American Fork, Utah, United States

American Fork, Utah, United States
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ABOUT THIS BLAZER
You are bidding on a SUPER NICE, very original 1971 Chevrolet Blazer CST (Custom Sport Truck) 4x4, with VERY LOW MILES…ONLY 93,000 ORIGINAL MILES!!!

The first generation Chevrolet K/5 Blazer is arguably the most fun and versatile vehicle you could ever own…it's a passenger car, truck, 4x4 and FULL CONVERTIBLE, all in one!

The 1971 Blazer is the year that made the Blazer so popular.  So much so, that nearly four times as many Blazers were made in 1972, making the 1971 nearly four times more rare.  The 1971 Blazer is identical to the 1972 except for the following:

  1. There is a black paint stripe around the grille in 1971 (which can be removed with paint stripper if desired)

  2. The rear view mirror in 1971 still attaches to the windshield frame instead of the windshield…the last year for this, and a very nice throwback to the ‘60’s era

  3. The horsepower output in 1971 was boosted by 5 horsepower in 1972…a non-issue since the entire drivetrain in this Blazer has been upgraded, and probably has 50% more horsepower than the original engine.

This Blazer is "Light Red", (paint code 514) from the factory, and has nearly every factory available option but the factory in-dash clock and tachometer, (although an aftermarket tachometer has been installed), and the OEM clock and tachometer are available and can easily be installed if desired.

FUEL INJECTION / 700R4 TRANSMISSION WITH OVERDRIVE GEAR / SERPENTINE BELT / ETC.
Our professional mechanic did a drivetrain upgrade, swapping out the tired OEM engine and transmission for that of a throttle body fuel injected (TBI) engine and 700R4 transmission with overdrive gear, (NOTE: the 700R4 transmission came from JASPER ENGINES AND TRANSMISSIONS…arguably the best engine and transmission rebuilder that there is).  I would not hesitate to drive this Blazer absolutely anywhere.

Having an automatic transmission with an overdrive gear makes driving at freeway speeds incredibly nice, by keeping the engine RPMs down, which greatly prolongs the life of the engine and transmission, etc.

This drivetrain was came from a super reliable Chevy Suburban that we owned and had been driving, so was known to be good before the drivetrain upgrade was started, but before moving the engine to the Blazer, we had our mechanic pull the intake manifold and oil pan off of the engine to go through everything. He told us that the engine looked new inside, and that he suspected that the engine had been rebuilt right before we bought the Suburban that it came out of. Further, he said that whoever did the engine rebuild really knew what they were doing, because it was the newer more desirable engine block with the older more desirable heads on it.

The computer has been nicely installed on the firewall below the glove box and behind the heater core on the passenger side, and the computer port AND orange colored CHECK ENGINE LIGHT under the dash near the emergency brake release handle, where they should be.

Another great benefit we got with the drivetrain upgrade was a serpentine belt…one single belt that drives everything…no more squeaky slipping V-belts!

During the drivetrain upgrade, we also made it a point to switch to a side-post terminal battery…much easier to work with, much less sulfation and “mess”, resulting in much more reliability.

We purposely didn’t dress up the engine after it was upgraded, because it looks so original in there!

We also put a screen in front of the radiator.  This is fiberglass window screen that we use in front of the radiator of all of our vehicles to protect the air conditioning components, and radiator from getting plugged up with dead bugs, or getting punctured by small stones.  When the bugs are stuck on the screen, it’s really easy to just hose them off come car wash time.

FUEL
Fuel is delivered to the engine by a Holley electric fuel pump (externally mounted), running at 14 PSI.  Between the electronic ignition, fuel injection and electric fuel pump, I can’t tell you nice it is to be able to just turn the key and have this Blazer just fire right up.  No pumping thegas pedal…no flooding…no holding the pedal to the floor, no vapor locking…those days are LONG GONE!

We don’t drive the Blazer during the winter, and even if the Blazer is parked in the garage for a month (with the car cover on it) before it gets started again, all it takes is a tap of the key and the engine IMMEDIATELY fires right up.

Fuel filtering has been upgraded to the canister style used in newer GM SUVs (Fram filter #3727), with the threads on both ends, mounted under the Blazer inside the frame, where it should be.  This larger filter and new style of connection and mounting ensures better fuel filtration, and safer vehicle operation.

4x4 – 4 WHEEL DRIVE
We also swapped out the 4x4 transfer case to what was compatible with the Blazer and donor Suburban parts, and rebuilt it before installing it. The differentials were also completely gonethrough, and brakes were all refreshed.

While this Blazer is a 4x4, and the 4-wheel drive works, we have treated it very gently, and have never done any off-road driving with it.

ELECTRICAL WIRING
When the drivetrain swap was performed, the OEM wiring harness was replaced with a Painless Wiring brand wiring harness, arguably the best wiring harness available, so all electrical wiring to the engine was new.

It’s really cool to have the original mechanical speedometer and odometer, and have the speed information converted to a digital signal that is sent to the computer to use to adjust timing, air/fuel mixture, etc., and keep the Blazer running like a dream.

RELIABILITY TO DRIVE ANYWHERE
Mechanically, this Blazer is absolutely top notch! I would not hesitate to drive it literally anywhere.  Whoever is lucky enough to pick up this Blazer could fly in to Salt Lake City, UT, and drive it home…even if you live 2,500 miles away!  I wouldn’t have any hesitation about it at all.

We live at 4,500 foot elevation, and often drive through the canyons of our beautiful 12,000 foot mountain range, because of the AMAZING VIEWS we have from a FULLY CONVERTIBLE Blazer, and it runs just as good at 8,000 feet, (about as high as we can drive to on pavement in our mountains), as it does at 4,500 feet, and it will perform just as well at sea level.

Lastly, this Blazer has ABSOLUTELY NO FLUID LEAKS WHATSOEVER!  A rarity among classic cars.

KEEP COOL WITH ICE COLD VINTAGE AIR 134a AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM
This Blazer had factory installed air conditioning, but it has been upgraded to the best of the best, and if you ever get too hot, just put the soft top up (or the hard top on) and turn on the ICE COLD R134a Vintage Air brand air conditioning system which will keep you cool and comfortable wherever you go!

EXTERIOR / PAINT
The exterior of the Blazer was repainted the original color before we bought it 6 years ago.  It’s not a show quality paint job, but is very nice.  We have received TONS of compliments on this Blazer.

The interior is still all original paint.

FACTORY OPTIONS

Some of the options that this Blazer has include: power steering, power disc brakes (front disc), ICE COLD Vintage Air air conditioning (replaced OEM air conditioning), windshield washer (using aftermarket pump for ease of installation and lower cost of replacement), 4x4, Custom Sport Truck (CST) package including: custom interior (bucket seats and center console, custom print on seats, door panels, interior bed side panels), exterior CST emblems (removed when repainted, but new ones are included and can be put back on), door edge guards, 3:73 gear ratio.  Also a rebuilt OEM tilt steering column was added.

SPECIALTY TOP COMPANY SOFT TOP WITH TARGA TOP AND FIBERGLASS HARDTOP
We are currently using the soft top for the Blazer, which was made by Soft Top by Specialty Top Company (STC), and is in very good condition. Specialty Top Company went out of business several years ago, so these soft tops for Blazers in good shape like this can go for nearly $1,000 by themselves!

We also have the original fiberglass top for the Blazer, which is in good shape.  It was repainted a tan color when the Blazer was repainted, which has helped to preserve it.  It does have some extremely minor cracking and there is a warp on the driver's side that is merely cosmetic, and doesn't affect performance at all. This warp can easily be filled with fiberglass resin if the top is ever going to be repainted.

The original fiberglass tailgate hatch is still installed in the top, but the ends on the inside are broken off and don’t latch closed, so another original fiberglass GM hatch has been purchased, and is included with the Blazer, along with a new hatch t-handle and keys.

NOTE: If the purchaser does not want the fiberglass top, we will reduce the purchase price by $400 and sell the fiberglass top locally.

DUAL EXHAUST WITH ALUMINNIZED PIPES AND STAINLESS STEEL TIPS
When the drivetrain was upgraded, this Blazer was treated to a completely new dual exhaust system using aluminized exhaust pipes, Flowmaster mufflers, and polished stainless steel tips that exit out the side behind the rear wheels.

The EXHAUST SOUNDS AWESOME!  It’s not too loud, but not too soft either…it’s JUST RIGHT!

HISTORY OF THIS BLAZER
When we bought the Blazer in 2008, we were told by the seller that his grandfather bought it new.  His grandfather transferred the title to his son at one point in time, who at some later point in time transferred ownership to his son, (the original owner’s grandson), who be bought it from, so we got it from the third generation owner in the same family.

We were told by this third generation owner that while the Blazer had been taken off-road camping, that it had never left its home county (Tooele County, UT), and the neighboring county (Salt Lake County, UT), which explains the LOW MILES…ONLY 93,000 MILES are on the odometer.

PARTS REPLACED
Other than modernizing the drivetrain and refreshing the paint, this Blazer really is very original, and we have only replaced original parts that had to be.  The list of original items replaced since we have owned the Blazer is pretty short, and includes:

·         All rear view mirrors (driver and passenger doors, windshield frame)

·         Driver exterior door handle and gasket (this broke a few weeks ago, and we bought a pair, so there’s another new one in the box for the passenger side if it is ever needed, or if you prefer one that looks brand new)

·         Window crank handle on the passenger side (again, we bought a pair, so there’s a new one included for the driver side if you want one that looks new)

·         Windshield washer pump (used a universal pump that is easier to change and more affordable, and installed a button for it under the dash in an existing hole…works great!)

·         All chrome ashtrays (The one in the center console and the two in the arm rests of the rear seat. The originals were rusty)

·         Seat belts for rear seat (original seat belts were seized)

·         Emergency brake release handle (the original handle was cracked)

·         Rebuilt OEM steering column with tilt and leather-wrapped steering wheel, (the original column was very tired. NOTE: the original steering wheel is included)

When we bought the Blazer, it was missing the rear seat mounting brackets and the interior spare tire mount, but after some significant effort, some OEM seat brackets and a spare tire mount were located, purchased, and installed.  NOTE: The spare tire mount can’t be used when using the soft top and the soft top is down, as one of the soft top bows won’t clear the spare tire, so when using the soft sop, we lay the spare tire flat in the bed.

ADD-ONS
We have added a couple of nice options, which include a glove box light and a locking button for the glove box, so that the contents of the glove box can be locked up (the only thing that locks when the Blazer top is off).  NOTE: The vintage Air A/C system reduces the size of the glove box space by about 90%).

A Kenwood CD player  has been installed, and hooked to two after-market kick panel speakers (NO cutting or drilling was done for the speakers…there’s no way I could bring myself to cut holes or drill holes for speakers).  One of these speakers recently shorted out, and I was going to replace it, but the new owner of this Blazer may not even want these kick panel speakers, so it hasn’t been replaced.

The CD player was installed under the dash using CB radio brackets, with one of them turned backwards, which amazingly allowed the CD player to line up perfectly and be installed using only existing holes and screws under the dash.

We have never added more speakers to this CD player, so there are wires coming off of the back of the CD player’s wiring harness that need to be “dressed up” so that they look nice.  It’s really cool to be able to listen to CD’s, music on a USB thumb drive, or an iPod, iPhone or other smartphone or device through the auxiliary input.

The original AM radio is still in the dash, but doesn’t power on.  No trouble shooting of this has been done, so we don’t know if this is an issue of power not getting to the radio, or if the radio is bad.  Either way, this original chrome radio looks awesome in the dash where it belongs.

The aftermarket wheels were on the Blazer when we bought it, but it needed new tires, which have probably 95% of the tread left.  Also, the spare tire is the original wheel, with the tire that was the Blazer when we got it, which is in good condition.

OTHER

This Blazer is 43 years old…it’s super nice, but it’s not perfect.  That being the case, I will attempt to disclose and describe everything that a prospective buyer would want to know, or would notice if they were to see the Blazer in person, that either don’t show up in pictures well, or that could easily be hidden by pictures.  I want you to know what you are getting and to be pleased with your purchase.  Even with these little “flaws”, because this Blazer really is super nice, and a ton of fun!

The interior is primarily original.  This being the case, there is age and wear of the seats.  The previous owner did have the driver seat reupholstered, which looks good and functions perfectly, but it wasn’t re-upholstered using the original CST pattern seat covers that are available.  Also, the passenger front seat has had a seam split and has some small wear through in one spot, and there appears to have been a hole at some point that was poorly repaired on the back outer edge. It’s not bad, and still functions well, so we have never attempted to repair it.  Lastly, some of the seams of the rear seat have split, however, our boys are 3 years old and 5 years old, so they are covered by their car seats, and we haven’t attempted to make any repair.  There is also some very minor cracking of the armrests of the rear seat where the chrome ash trays go.

We replaced the OEM steering column with a rebuilt OEM column with tilt (the original column didn’t have tilt). The turn signal cancel cam in this new steering column doesn’t work when it is hot out, (over about 65 degrees).  When the weather is cool, it works fine.  Our mechanic told us that this is a spring tension issue and that over time, as the spring loses some tension, that it is likely to start working correctly on its own.

The original carpet was removed at some point, and was replaced with some low quality carpet without padding beneath it. It’s not original, but it works, and doesn’t look all that bad, so we have never replaced it.

The door panels and interior bedside panels are all original with the CST pattern, and while they still look nice, they do show age, and the bedside panels have some warping.

The interior paint is all original, which for the most part is in good shape, but there are some minor chips on the doors and glove box door.  Also, on the left side of the in-dash ash tray, the paint was cracked and flaking, so it was sanded smooth, but it hasn’t been repainted.

For some reason, the previous owner spray painted the inside of the wheel tubs and the inside of the tailgate with black spray paint.  I believe they did this to have the color match the interior bedside panels, so that it was all black.  No attempt has been made to remove this paint, but it appears that it comes off fairly easily…I’m sure that no prep work was done for this black paint, so it didn’t stick very well, and I believe that removing the seat and carpets and simply pressure washing it will remove it.

The fuel gauge sending unit was replaced several years ago, and has worked great, but this year, the gauge has been a little intermittent.  It appears that there may be a grounding issue to correct.

There are two small rust holes about the size of a nickel in the front outer driver side floor board, right up against the kick panel, at the base of where the floor pan turns to go up to the firewall.  Because this is so minor, is hidden by the carpet, and hasn’t caused any interior leak, no attempt has been made to repair it, even though it is a simple repair.

I believe that there was some rust in the rocker panels, as the trained eye can see that there has been some body work there, but it seems to have been repaired well, as we have had no problems with this at all.

The Blazer has never been in an accident with another vehicle; however the passenger side front fender was replaced with an aftermarket fender before the Blazer was repainted, (before we owned it).  The previous owner said that when his dad owned the Blazer, there was an incident where he was backing up, turned the steering wheel, and while looking behind to back up, turned the fender into a dumpster.

It appears that when the Blazer was repainted that the side molding was discarded.  I can only assume that it was damaged when removing it, so they threw it away.  This being the case, we do not have the side molding.  This molding is available in the aftermarket though.  Also, we are including a roll of stick-on side molding, (the good stuff with 3M adhesive), that is what was used on the 1989-1991 Blazer, if someone wanted to cover the holes for the original molding.

We drive the Blazer on a regular basis, so of course, there are a few paint chips; most of which have been touched up.  There are also a couple of scratches that will buff out nicely, but no attempt has been made to do this (we don’t have a good buffer).  One of these scratches did result in paint about the size of a dime being knocked off, which has been touched up.

It appears that at one point in time, that the hood was closed on something, as there is a spot about 1/16” wide and 4” – 5” long, just to the passenger side of the center rib of the hood near the cowl, that is slightly raised.  It’s not very noticeable.  We had owned the Blazer for a while before I washed it for the first time, which is when I first noticed this.

There is one noticeable ding in the body, which is in the bedside behind the passenger door.  This occurred when the Blazer was at the shop getting the exhaust system put on it, and of course, no one at the shop knows what happened.  It chipped the paint, which has been touched up.

There is some rust in the passenger inner fender well and radiator support where the two meet.  It appears that at some point in the past, that a battery boiled over and leaked acid on the inner fender and radiator support below it, exposing them to the elements, which over time, caused the rust.  It doesn’t affect functionality at all, and isn’t seen without the hood up and looking under the battery, or when under the Blazer, so no attempt has been made to repair this.

The grille shell and grille insert are original, and while they still look surprisingly good, they have seen better days.  The grille shell is dented in two spots on the driver side…one on the top where it meets the hood, and one on the side near the headlight.  The OEM materials are very heavy duty, so I have contemplated whether to try to have it repaired, or whether to replace it with an aftermarket grille shell.  I never decided, so this hasn’t been addressed yet. 

The grille insert does have some cracking near the driver side headlight, which isn’t noticeable.  I didn’t notice it until we had owned the Blazer for a while.  The cracking is not in the egg-crate part of the grille, but in the mounting bracket.  The previous owner zip tied it together, which holds it together surprisingly well.  It’s really not noticeable.

The bumpers are original.  The rear bumper was apparently hit at one point in the past, so there is a dent where it was hit, but is otherwise straight.  There are very affordable aftermarket options, however our plan was to keep the original bumper and have it professionally straightened to keep it original.

The front bumper is a bit “off”, where the gap between the bumper and grille on the driver side is slightly narrower than it is on the passenger side, but the bumper itself appears to be straight.  The bumper ends are not bolted to the bumper brackets, and it seems that this is due to the brackets being bent.  I believe that new front bumper brackets that are straight, will correct this.

Most of this is “little stuff”, but to tell you the truth, this Blazer has been so much fun, that we have spent our time driving and enjoying it instead of tweaking it.

WHY WE ARE SELLING THIS BLAZER
We have owned this Blazer for more than 6 years, and really hate to let it go, but there have been some medical expenses, and letting it to go to a new owner will help to replenish our family's savings. This does not mean that we will let the Blazer go for bottom dollar...we won't. This Blazer will sell for what it is worth, or we will keep it and find another way to replenish our savings.

SUMMARY
This Blazer is garage kept, and under a car cover when not in regular daily use.  It is only driven in good weather from late spring to early fall, with occasional starting of the engine to keep the fluids moving.

Our 3 and 5 year old boys have loved this vehicle.  My wife often drives the boys to and from preschool in it, and I have absolutely no concerns or worries about them, because it is so reliable...I wouldn’t hesitate to drive it anywhere.

This Blazer can be enjoyed as-is, or is a perfect candidate for someone who wants to turn it into a show vehicle, or someone who wants a super nice vehicle to use for off-roading, camping, etc.

This is a private party sale.  You are buying directly from the person who has owned and operated this Blazer for the last 6 years…NOT a dealer.

A $500 non-refundable deposit via PayPal is required within 48 hours of winning the auction. The balance can be paid by PayPal or cashier’s check, and must be received within 7 days of winning the auction.

The seller will cooperate with the buyer or buyer’s agent or transport agent to make pickup and delivery of this Blazer as simple as possible, however, any costs associated with pickup and delivery are the responsibility of the buyer.

Please let us know if you have any questions.

Thanks and happy bidding!

Auto Services in Utah

Whitlock`s Collision Repair Center ★★★★★

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Tunex of South Ogden ★★★★★

Auto Repair & Service, Auto Oil & Lube, Automobile Air Conditioning Equipment-Service & Repair
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The Car Guys ★★★★★

New Car Dealers, Used Car Dealers
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Auto blog

Top 11 Lego Technic cars to buy on Amazon in 2024

Mon, Jan 22 2024

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Junkyard Gem: 1986 Chevrolet Sprint Plus

Fri, Jun 16 2023

General Motors sold second- and third-generation Suzuki Cultuses with Geo or Chevrolet Metro badging in the United States from 1989 through 2001 model years, and we've all seen plenty of those cars on the street over the years. The first-generation Cultus was sold here as well, with Chevrolet Sprint badges, and I've found a rare example of the Sprint five-door hatchback in a Northern California car graveyard. The Chevy Sprint first appeared on the West Coast as a 1985 model, then became available everywhere in the United States for the 1986 through 1988 model years (in Canada, it was sold as the Pontiac Firefly). It was available here as a hatchback with three or five doors; for 1986 only, the five-door was badged as the Sprint Plus. Soon enough, The General would be selling many more Asian-built cars with Detroit badges here. Isuzu I-Marks were sold as Chevrolet/Geo Spectrums starting in the 1986 model year, while Daewoo provided the Pontiac LeMans two years later. Under the hood, a 1.0-liter three-cylinder rated at 48 horsepower. The five-door Sprint cost $5,580 in 1986, which was $200 more than the three-door (those prices would be $15,445 and $14,891 in 2023 dollars). I've documented seven discarded Sprints prior to this one (including an extremely rare Turbo Sprint), and all of them were three-doors; we can assume that price was the most important factor for Sprint buyers. Gasoline prices were crashing hard during the middle 1980s, but memories of gas lines and odd-even-day fuel rationing from 1979 remained strong. What cars competed with the '86 Sprint on sticker price? Well, there was no way to undercut the hilariously affordable (and terrible) Yugo GV, which cost $3,990. The much bigger (but still pretty bad) Hyundai Excel listed at $4,995, while Toyota would sell you a sturdy (but zero-fun) Tercel starting at $5,448. Even the wretched Chevy Chevette — yes, it was still available in 1986 — cost $5,645. The original buyer of this car was willing to shell out an extra $395 to get an automatic instead of the base five-speed manual. That's about $1,093 in today's money. This car must have been slow. By the end, the doors were held shut with duct tape, but it still stayed alive until age 37. 53 miles per gallon on the highway! It does everything. The camels of the highway.

GM might lose 90-year U.S. sales crown over chip shortage

Sat, Oct 2 2021

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