'67 Bmw 1600/2, Very Rare, Good Comp, Min Rust, Exc Resto/mod Candidate on 2040-cars

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VIN: 1526774 Year: 1967
Interior Color: Black
Make: BMW
Number of Cylinders: 4
Model: 2002
Trim: 2 door sports sedan
Drive Type: 4 speed
Mileage: 99,999
Exterior Color: Silver originally
Safety Features: HMSL

Condition: UsedA vehicle is considered used if it has been registered and issued a title. Used vehicles have had at least one previous owner. The condition of the exterior, interior and engine can vary depending on the vehicle's history. See the seller's listing for full details and description of any imperfections.Seller Notes:"CLASSIC 1967 BMW 1600/2 * 2 Door Sedan * Nearly rust free! * Silver gray (Polaris Neu) * New windshield/molding * Very rare, factory refinished 13"x6" aluminum "window paned" rims * 1.6L engine runs (good compression!) w/rebuilt head * Head ported * Intake ported * Exhaust ported * Tii mechanical distributor * 4 speed * 4.11 stock rear end *Eibach springs * Bilstein struts/shocks * Addco front sway bar * Used Recaro seats *So early that imported as 6vdc, and upgraded to 12vdc * Low mounted power brake booster allows side drafts to be installed readily-"

Great cold compression tests: #1 => 125psi, #2 => 124psi, #3 => 127psi, #4 => 130psi.

Average is 126.5psi per cylinder!

Starts quick, runs good!

We were living in Georgetown, TX (just north of Austin) when I bought this 1967 BMW 1600-2 in 1997. The wheels were rare since they were 13"x6" with the correct offset to stuff the wheel well, so I figured that between the wheels, and other suspension parts such as Bilstein shocks and struts, and springs, it was worth the price. Since the springs are Eibach yellow, I assume they are Eibach.  I also assume the front struts are Bilstein, but I have not taken the strut towers apart.  The struts dampen bounces readily and cleanly.  The '67 handles very well.  Like an enclosed go-kart!

As you can see in the pictures, all the serial numbers match and we have a clear title on the vehicle.

After having the car brought home on a flatbed, I first had to get all the wheels unlocked due to rust on the rear brake drums, and frozen calipers and rusted discs on the front. Even the front rubber brake lines had collapsed and had to be replaced.  They were functioning like a one-way valve and would lock the pads tight and not release.

However, as I was crawling around on the car, I realized that structurally, it was perfect!  No structural rust, no bends in the unibody, and most importantly, no sign of it ever being in a major accident.  An excellent restoration candidate was my decision.  The area of greatest concern for rust is proximate to the rear shock towers and the integrity of the pan between the rear wheelhouses. No rust there and the car is square!

I have worked on and restored a number of BMW’s through the years.  I did a Granada Red 1968 (titled as a '69) while I lived in Los Angeles in the '90's. I also did a 1972 red 2002 with in dash A/C, and a 1976 Jade Green.  The '72 was for a friend so we only rebuilt the drive train with a mild cam upgrade and stereo'ed it.  The '76 we still have and my wife loves to drive it.  My prime BMW is now a Stage 3 suspension-ed '88 535is.

 When I finally got the '67's brakes working and the engine running, I went for a test drive, and the head cracked.   The engine had set so long that the aluminum head had "thinned" due to antifreeze corrosion and when I stressed it just meekly driving only one day, it popped through and I limped home on 3 cylinders firing.

Now 1600 heads were rare even 12+ years ago.  So while I was tracking down a rebuilt head, I put several dozen hours porting to gasket, hogging and contouring both the exhaust and intake manifolds. Once I got the rebuilt head, since it was bare, I ported and contoured it, too.  Many dozens of hours were spent doing that.  I even hand sanded the essentially stock one-barrel carb to "smooth" the flow.  To say this little 1.6L flows well, is an understatement.  It twists up like a motorcycle engine and the exhaust manifold will go dark cherry red with heat.

I replaced the original hood on the '67 with the hood off another old BMW.   The '67's front left (driver's side) had been hit and pulled out "pretty good," but the hood was still ugly.  As you can see in the pictures, the hood on it now is very square and looks good. At that time I had it painted.

The front windshield is brand new and the rear window gasket is new.  I special ordered the M series black beading that locks the window gaskets in place.  The radiator is rebuilt. The ignition system has a centrifugal advance distributor and a Bosch blue ignition coil.  The seats are Recaros, and you can see from the pictures that they need to be restored, but this would cost much less than what new ones would cost.  The  idler arm bushings have been renewed. (The squeak was so annoying!)  The early 1600's did not have a heat shield and larger bushings that the later 2002's had.

The original factory seatbelts have been replaced with later model 2002 shoulder/seat belts.

The wheels have been professionally restored and look very good (see pictures).  While in TX, I took all 4 in to have tires mounted.  The tire technician cosmetically ruined one wheel when doing the dismount and mount.  The shop couldn't deny the damage, but had to get all 4 restored so they would all match.  I suspect all 4 wheels are worth an easy $250+ each, IF you can find them.
 
All the front suspension is tight.  All tie rods are tight. The lower ball joints are tight. The lower brake strut's rubber is solid. Both the upper strut bushings are good and smooth.  All the rear rubber is solid.  Both subframe rubber mount bushings and center differential rubber mount bushings are solid.  Why is all the rubber in excellent condition?  Because I installed new or near perfect used because I learned in my first BMW restoration that "correct" rubber in the drive train and suspension is Required to enable the Ultimate Driving Machine!  BMW engineers pride themselves on using the compliance of rubber bushing to alter the suspension geometry depending on cruise, corner, stop or go quickly. They call this "elastic kinetic dynamics" if my memory holds true.  So I have been very careful to first "tighten" the suspension and driveline.  The guibo is good and so is the center support bearing.

I put an Addco .875" front sway bar on it.  There are not rear sway bars available for the "long neck" 4.11 rear ends in the 1600's.

The upper strut bushings are pretty good and the tie rods, drag link, and lower ball joints are all tight.  The steering box is tight, too. The car handles very well and is a real hoot to drive, even given its present "issues."

The '67 deserves a better engine cradle.  When I got the car the engine did not sit square in the engine compartment.  Essentially the engine mount bracket by the steering sector was bent and the engine was rotated counterclockwise 5-8 degrees horizontally in the engine compartment.  This is a weak link in all 1600/2002's.  Generally that mount is reinforced to handle the torque spikes of shifting these engines at WOT.  I did that on my '69 for the same reason. The bracket breaks not infrequently otherwise.

What else is wrong with the car?  One of the half shafts clumps.  The sliding joint is bad (lumpy) and that needs to be replaced.  Good ones can still be found in junkyards on most 1600's.  Later model 2002's used constant velocity joints with the short neck rear end.  The second gear synchronizer is slow, so the stock transmission needs to be rebuilt.  And the clutch slips once the engine is warmed up in 2nd and 3rd gear.  At about 50 or so, the vibration from the bad half shaft is pretty annoying.  The ignition switch is worn out, so I replaced it with 3 toggle switches to start and run.  As you can see, all these issues can be readily addressed in a home garage.

The rocker panels (see pictures) have no dents and No rust that has penetrated. This is yet another reason why this '67 is an excellent restoration candidate.

So far my research into this VIN#1526774 indicates that it was one of the 1000 imported by Max Hoffman in 1967.  It has "tropical" tinted windows. It looks like a 6-volt system converted to a 12v.  The brake booster is mounted low and forward, and not high on the firewall.  (Despite that not being very elegant, it allows side-drafts to be "properly" installed.) The master brake cylinder is mounted low on the firewall and I have rebuilt it once. Low mounted master cylinders collect water from moisture in the lines and rust more often.  The good news, and why I celebrate the early brake booster configuration, is that if one were to install side-draft Webers or Mikuni's on this high flow engine, the #4 velocity stack does not have to be cut down and a foam sock put over it to clear the later high mounted, brake booster and master cylinder.  Therefore this very early 1600 is appropriate for restoration for vintage racing.

Why am I selling this rare 1600?  I was going on 50 years of age when I bought it.  I turned 65 earlier this year, so wife says I need to de-clutter the backyard and garage a bit.

This car makes this an excellent father and son project.  The engine is "electronic-less," so setting points, timing, and carb jetting are traditional.  Mechanically, BMW's are great to work on.  BMW has virtually all mechanical and body trim parts still available from them.

 We have more pictures we can send any interested parties.  Also, due to my years of involvement with 2002’s, I may have a few parts on hand, if needed, for this 1600 purchase.

Sincerely,
Martin Spencer
BMW CCA #46971

Phone with any questions: M 404-819-8985 or M 404-543-8403


1967 if 1600/2 Parted Out:
New windshield        $125
Eibach springs         $100
Bilstein shocks           $50
Bilstein struts           $75
Addco front sway bar       $75
13"x6' wheels         $500
Short block         $300
Rebuilt head         $350
Good starter           $35
Good alternator           $35
Good radiator           $35
Tii distributor           $75
Transmission         $125
Recaro seats         $250
Steering wheel           $35
Tube front bumper         $125
Rear HMSL           $20
Front turn signals           $75
Rear brake/turn signals    $125
Horn               $15
Wiper motor           $25
Instrument cluster         $125
Headlight switch           $15